This article first appeared on Vogue Business.
Spring/Summer 2026 is set to be a bumper season in Milan.
Running 23 to 29 September, this Milan Fashion Week will feature 55 physical and four digital shows, up slightly on last season. But all eyes will be focused on a few shows in particular, as the tectonic plates of many of the city’s megabrands shift under new creative direction.
First comes Gucci, which will stage an intimate presentation on Tuesday, to showcase Demna’s much-awaited debut collection for the house. The event will explore the brand’s past, present and future, Gucci has said. It’s one of the season’s most-anticipated moments, creatively and commercially, as the crown jewel of Kering’s brand stable aims to turn the tide, after another set of sales declines announced last week.
The next morning, Simone Bellotti will make his debut at Jil Sander, the next debut in OTB’s creative shake-up following Glenn Martens’s Margiela debut during couture week. And on Saturday afternoon, Louise Trotter will stage her first outing at Bottega Veneta.
Versace is notably absent from the official schedule. The brand was set to stage its first runway show under new creative director Dario Vitale, who succeeded Donatella Versace in March (Versace remains at the brand as chief brand ambassador). There were rumours the Roman house would stage a presentation instead, to reveal Vitale’s inaugural collection. But without a calendar slot, the plans remain to be seen.
Debuts aside, there’s plenty more to see. Diesel will kick off proceedings with a show on Tuesday afternoon. Milan powerhouses Fendi and Prada will return to the schedule, alongside mainstays Ferragamo, Tod’s, Moschino and Max Mara. David Koma will stage his sophomore show at Blumarine. Meanwhile, Boss, Calcaterra, Federico Cina, Stella Jean and The Attico will each return to the calendar this season, after one or two seasons off.
London-based brand Knwls will make its MFW debut on Wednesday night, perhaps setting its sights on international expansion after a two-season hiatus, while Indian streetwear-inspired label Dhruv Kapoor will also make its first outing on the womenswear calendar.
Finally, Giorgio Armani will close out the week with a runway show on Sunday 28, celebrating the brand’s 50th anniversary.
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