What’s been the biggest surprise about working here?
What’s really nice is working in a place with a team. That’s going to be exciting for the true first collection in February, where I really get to, like, play with the developers, the material researchers.
Any challenges?
I’m quite optimistic. So challenges don’t really set me back. I don’t have an intention of turning the brand on its head. I think that there is a beautiful legacy here. I think it has to move forward. So it’s going to be an evolution—not a revolution, an evolution. There are people that have been here for a long time, but it’s not really a challenge. It’s more about them learning my perspective and just coming together on that.
When people see Proenza Schouler next week, what will the similarities or through-lines be, and what will feel fresh and different?
There will be similarities in terms of the sharpness of tailoring. It’s one of my favorite things to do, and it’s such a strong element of the brand. Some of the color will be a through-line, but then some of the color is going to be surprising. And I think the most obvious thing is going to be materiality, because I am obsessed with texture and materials. I think that will show.
You’re a woman taking over a brand founded by men. Does that hold any resonance for you? Do you see yourself as a force for change because of that?
I think that’s a real thing. I’ve worked for men and women throughout my career, and there’s definitely a different approach. I think [men can] have a real love for women, but they’re not women themselves. I can really get into how I need to feel when I need to feel powerful, or where I need to feel sharp. I have more access to the sensuality of women, because I hold that in my existence. So in the way that that wasn’t touched on as much, it will get touched on, I hope. I want to, as we move forward.
Did you know Jack and Lazaro before this?
I didn’t, but I knew the previous CEO Kay Hong because she was my mentor at the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Before my presentation last September my shoes didn’t arrive, and I was calling everyone I knew. Kay got the team here to help me try and figure out with UPS how to get the shoes. And Lazaro said to Kay, ‘if she doesn’t get her shoes, just tell her to come over here and she can get whatever she needs for her show.’ When she told me that I was sobbing. I was just so, so, so thankful. And everyone was like, whatever, it’s fine obviously. And I was like, no, that’s not obvious. People don’t do things like that. And then I was nominated for the Womenswear Designer of the Year [at the CFDA Awards], and they were nominated too, and somehow I won, and I thanked them without saying who they were in the speech. When Shira decided that she thought I’d be a good fit for the temporary role, then I got some zoom with them from Paris.
