It was the best of New York Fashion Weeks, it was the worst of New York Fashion Weeks. Forgive me for yassifying that great Charles Dickens line. The responses to the Spring 2026 fashion shows that just wrapped up in New York City really are that diametrically opposed and sweepingly general, depending on which critic you ask.
From my seat at the shows, I found a through-line that overpowers the internet-optimized hot takes: “real, relatable looks for women with complicated, demanding lives,” as designer Maria McManus put it. There’s an entire country (and beyond) of women seeking a spark of inspiration for how to dress during, and in spite of the world they live in, for situations that aren’t sitting in a front row or getting snapped by a street style photographer. This season, the best New York Fashion Week looks I saw spoke to those shoppers as well as the certified fashion people in the room. How’d they do it? With smart bursts of color, unconventional layers, and a street-wise sensibility.
Whether her clients were headed to a long-haul flight or a book tour, Rachel Comey provided them with unconventional layers (like a tank top folded down as a belt).
(Image credit: Furkan Temir)
The week began with two women-led labels who put their clients front-and-center in their collections. Rachel Comey described her Spring 2026 lineup, hosted just before the official fashion week kick-off, as a blend of “utility and versatility, with moments of spontaneity and intimacy—the latter of which feels almost like a gift (and a reminder) to hardworking women.” This translated to wool blazers cut to layer over cocktail dresses or just denim; a mini white shirt dress with a halfway-folded tank top styled as a belt; triple-decker shirt-sandwiches over leather skirts. These looks were were modeled by women of various ages and backgrounds, who also did their own makeup for the show. (“They’re all interesting adult women with points of view, after all,” Comey said. “As much as I love a large backstage production with producers and team members flying around with walkie-talkies and clipboards, an intimate gathering with women putting on their own lipstick and chatting feels like the room I want to be in.”)
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Two days later, Maria McManus started a day of fashion week programming with trench coats, dress-over-matching-pant sets, and diaphanous skirts “built to help us get through our days with more integrity, beauty, and optimism.” When she says her pieces are meant for “school drop-offs, board meetings, interviews, cocktails, [and] road trips,” it doesn’t feel hard to imagine. Her palette of a dreamy lavender set to mocha mousse brown and black made even the least glamorous hypotheticals feel a little more luxe. Better yet, her ethos extended to the brands tapped to accessorize or round out each look: AGOLDE denim, Le Sundial jewelry, and Esha Soni bags—also all women-led labels.
Maria McManus elevated apparel for school drop-offs and board meetings with her signature sustainably-sourced fabrics, plus accessories and denim by women-led brands.
(Image credit: Launchmetrics)
It’d be hard to argue New York Fashion Week was lacking in excitement after the September 15 double-header of Diotima (in designer Rachel Scott’s runway debut) and Tory Burch (one of the most highly sought-after tickets on the calendar). These women are at different places in their careers and speak different design languages. Burch’s is a reinterpretation of American sportswear more than two decades in the making; Scott’s puts forth the “radical practice of self-actualization” through references to the history of Carnival throughout the diaspora. The resulting garments couldn’t be more visually dissimilar, either.
Juliet-sleeve dresses in peony pink and apple red joined the Lee Radziwill bags and sensible pencil skirts at Tory Burch, in a playful blend of front-row guest Tessa Thompson categorized as “ethereal business lady.” Diotima presented undulating macraméd skirts with an “extreme décolleté” and crystal mesh applied to nonchalant garments. Where these collections overlapped was a refreshingly bright palette and delicious color combinations—plus shapes that invited the eye in without getting in the way of a low heel or a great bag. A note Scott added to summarize her collection applies all over the spring runways: “Beauty, sensuality, and joy here are not mere adornments, but a defiant declaration of resilience and power.” Who doesn’t want that in 2025?
Tory Burch’s hot streak continued in one of the most vibrantly colorful runways of the week—without sacrificing her tailoring expertise or excellent handbag designs.
(Image credit: Courtesy Tory Burch)
In Diotima’s runway debut, Rachel Scott explored fresh textures and proportions (while drumming up excitement for her full takeover at Proenza Schouler).
(Image credit: Diotima)
When spring fashion shows took a more minimally-leaning turn, they still offered up new layering tricks that can transcend their downtown New York City debuts. TWP made rain boots and Birkenstock sandals look exceptionally chic with the likes of a cardigan over a drippy sequin skirt or a boiler jumpsuit and trench, with a little pendant lanyard for glasses. (The collection also came with a foundational reference I’ve never seen before: “prairie gardens of the American Midwest,” according to show notes.) At Fforme, Frances Howie ushered her customer out of the city and onto a remote beach with fringed knit dresses and double-stacked tank tops in a black-white-camel palette. These collections reminded me of what I love across the Atlantic Ocean at Copenhagen Fashion Week, where a predominantly women-led fashion calendar results in functional dresses over pants and an inclination to wear flip-flops with just about everything.
TWP’s collection felt engineered from the ground up, with easy-yet-interesting layers topping the Birkenstocks and galoshes every woman has sitting in her closet.
(Image credit: TWP)
Fforme creative director Frances Howie says her Spring 2026 collection lands where “function meets the sublime call of escape,” from wetsuit-inspired leather tops to flip-flops paired to precisely-cut slacks.
(Image credit: Fforme)
Daniella Kallmeyer, a newly-minted CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year Award-nominee, proved industry accolades and real-world appeal don’t have to be mutually exclusive. The Kallmeyer Spring 2026 lineup picked up her thread of universal wardrobe favorites (like a great black trouser) made new with singular layering and prints (like a scarf top Marie Claire editor-in-chief Nikki Ogunnaike caught celebrity guests ogling on her Instagram). Kallmeyer was also sprinkled with Nike sneakers and pre-loved pieces from eBay—a reminder that great runway collections also play well with other items already in one’s closet.
I felt the most giddy, I need-to-shop-this-now energy from the crowd at Tibi, where delightfully contrasting colors and a re-imagined hoop skirt broke up a reliably elevated lineup of blazers with nipped-in waists and billowing funnel-neck trench coats. (Neon green and pale pink? This runway convinced me it works.) Creative director Amy Smilovic’s directive of dressing “creative pragmatists” has never felt so timely: Each piece had a small twist—say, a double-zippered jean or an acrylic pannier belt over a poplin skirt—that made pieces feel ready to wear anywhere (and, still interesting).
Kallmeyer’s Spring 2026 outing excelled where double-layered shirts around the waist and inventively tied scarves came into play.
(Image credit: GO Runway, Courtesy of Kallmeyer)
Amy Smilovic of Tibi revamped her “creative pragmatist” approach with clear acrylic panniers and doubled-up oversize layers.
(Image credit: GO Runway)
There are storm clouds swirling just outside the bubble where designers cast their Spring 2026 wardrobe predictions . President Trump’s here-today, maybe-gone-tomorrow tariffs are disproportionately affecting women-led brands. The customers brands dress are facing tightening restraints on their personal freedoms and their budgets—and all that uncertainty undoubtedly trickles down into when and how they shop (or think about fashion at all). Naturally, designers are going to move in a slightly more commercial direction to face the times. Labels who stood out this week were able to thread an increasingly sensitive needle without straying all that far from their mission. As Rachel Comey wrote, these are “clothes that make you feel good and support all your efforts, both in your work and non-work lives.”
Runway trends and trendy takes will fall in and out of fashion. But school-drop offs, board meetings, interviews, flights, road trips, cocktails, and weekends at home will always be there. Now, there are clothes that serve as a pocket of joy for each one.
TOPICS
Fashion Month 2025
