When it comes to skincare, there is no shortage of impressive active ingredients to know: bakuchiol, BHAs, tranexamic acid, and more. However, few people have heard about dioic acid, an ingredient that is said to reduce excess oil and bacteria, fade dark spots, and create a more even skin tone. Sound promising? Read on to find out more about this potentially game-changing ingredient.
What is dioic acid?
Dioic acid—which is sometimes also known as octadecenedioic acid—is a type of carboxylic acid derived from plants. It has a chemical structure similar to azelaic acid, an ingredient used to treat acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. However, according to at least one study that compared dioic acid to hydraquinone—another popular treatment for dark spots and melasma—dioic acid may be somewhat gentler and less likely to irritate the skin. “Dioic acid was developed after the search for an alternative that could deliver effective results at lower concentrations than 20% azelaic acid,” notes Satchi Skin, which offers a serum starring the ingredient.
To that end, dioic acid is becoming more prevalent in skincare products that target hyperpigmentation and post-acne dark spots. And, thanks to its ability to help unclog pores and manage P.acnes bacteria, it’s also used to prevent acne from forming in the first place—even for those with sensitive skin. “Dioic acid is an effective and highly tolerated skin product,” the aforementioned study notes.
Which products contain dioic acid?
Though dioic acid isn’t widely known yet, it’s being increasingly used as an ingredient in products from well-known brands. Skinceuticals’ Blemish + Age Defence serum, for example, contains 2% dioic acid with salicylic acid to target adult acne, fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven skin tone. PSA’s Silver Lining Dioic & Willowherb Clarifying Cream contains 4% dioic acid along with vitamin C for a moisturizer that promises to hydrate while clarifying skin. And, dioic acid is also an active ingredient in The Inkey List’s recently launched 360° Acne Clearing Serum, which promises to visibly reduce breakouts in just two weeks.
PSA Skincare
Silver Lining Dioic & Willowherb Clarifying Cream
The Inkey List
360° Acne Clearing Serum
Multi Nutrient & Dioic Renewing Cream
Have a beauty or wellness trend you’re curious about? We want to know! Send Vogue’s senior beauty & wellness editor an email at beauty@vogue.com.
