In Italian, “La Grazia” means grace, the title Francesco Scognamiglio chose for his fall 2026 haute couture collection. This choice of phrase had a specific intention: to celebrate beauty, realized at the highest level, through a collection that was something of a hymn to femininity. Idealized women who frequented Studio 54—the legendary New York club that served as the epitome of glamour in the late ’70s—served as Scognamiglio’s inspiration, who imagined channeling their freedom of expression and style. Hence, an early ’80s aesthetic was a through line in the collection, drawing on iconic figures such as David Bowie and Madonna, respectively, through pastel suits and lingerie-like creations.
To open the collection, there was a gown whose structure was made of many delicate, pale pink ribbons, knotted by hand to create a sort of fragile armor. Then, the focus moved to hand-draped fabrics twisted and wrapped around tight sculptural bustiers, rendered in a pannier silhouette. That was how a peach-colored top with a matching column skirt was built, giving the optical illusion of being a full gown. Or the lean dresses with gatherings built around a central seam and three-quarter length sleeves crafted from an incredibly light and simple thin jersey; another flashier, crystal-encrusted version added a bit of dazzle. A pink suit, with rounded lapels, was a nod to David Bowie, worn over a top that created another illusion, that of an incredibly long bow-tie wrapped around the bust. Its structure, however, was akin to a couture harness. Meanwhile, the black, slouchy tuxedo was an homage Scognamiglio paid to his first years working with Gianni Versace, when you couldn’t go without jeweled buttons, paired with dazzling necklaces.
As a celebration of beauty itself, the black see-through organza gown embellished with lace resembling gardenias—all designed and cut by hand—and finished with volants, was a declared tribute to Valentino Garavani, who dedicated his life to capturing feminine beauty. Ultimately, the same lace appliqués decorated the sumptuous wedding gown that closed the collection.
