Astrid Andersen had a stellar turn as a menswear and streetwear designer working under her own name in London. When she returned to the fashion fray after a several year absence with Stel, a modular ready-to-wear line, things had changed for her. Andersen had moved home to the Jutland region of Denmark and become a mother. And she wanted to put her past to the side and make a fresh start with “tailoring you can skate in, denim you can dance in, and shirting you can travel in”—for women.
A couple of years after launch, Andersen continues to grapple with the identity of her muse. After careful consideration she declares the Stel woman to be “feminine but not romantic or decorative.” The designer also notes that while performance wear is a key asset of her process, her muse’s approach to dressing is non-performative. Thankfully all of this hand-wringing over identity and category didn’t stop Andersen from producing a strong collection that, in the main, looked like it would appeal to a person of any gender.
One of this summer’s trends among young Copenhageners, men and women alike, were long shorts. Stel’s washed denim versions have a slight balloon shape and look fabulous paired with a matching jean vest or a snug knit top with a center zip. The brand’s signature pinnie details were back, used for shirts and a workwear jacket with a nice texture and firm hand. Andersen proved herself a fine tailor as well. A sleeveless coat and a smart asymmetric vest were standouts.
