While the look of a collection will, of course, be central to its success, this season Kith wants you to consider how it feels. Fall buzzwords at the brand include “texture,” “tactile,” “patina,” and “dimensionality.” Gone are the breezy Amalfi Coast-inspired stripes, florals, and paisleys of summer, and in their place are a richer, earthy palette and an emphasis on broken-in leathers, chunky knits, and nubby velvets, many of which had been treated or dyed to give them a weather-worn, lived-in appearance.
In addition to Kith’s foundation of sportswear-meets-tailoring, a gentle motif of the West, helped along with a collaboration with the Japanese brand Needles, was particularly appealing here. One mocha colored, washed velvet blouson jacket came outfitted with metal-tipped collars and grommeted cuff details, and its matching, relaxed-cut pants carried over that cowboyesque studding. Meanwhile, one two-toned Needles collared zip jacket featured a pointed yoke, and another look took the classic tracksuit, in inky crushed velour, and added ranch-hand elements like a snap-button front and fringed tassels running up the sides of the pants. Yee-haw, yes, but in hushed tones.
These gestures were certainly fun and provided some novelty, but the collection was still very much grounded in a fine-tuned mix of the athletic mixed with workwear—plus a little prep and a touch of militaria—all given a bit of oomph through subtle design updates and thoughtful fabrics. To that end, one dramatically high-collared navy track jacket came in a microsuede and with contrasting pockets, while another, in brown patchwork, got some sleek graphic punch with white piping tracing the sleeves and shoulders. There were a few iterations of varsity jackets, no doubt best-sellers, in wool patchwork or various styles of knit, such as cable or bouclé. Other outerwear pieces included a boxy, drop-shoulder style made from upcycled leather with a vintage feel, or sleeker racing-inspired styles. Pants remained slouchy, from draped, pintucked cuts to baggy cargos. Suiting elements, like pinstriped, double breasted jackets or pleated wool trousers, were cut casually but still added a touch of formality to the collection.
