Leathers and knits? For spring? Groundbreaking. At least, that’s what Jonathan Simkhai’s design attitude was this season. Instead of playing into the fashion stereotypes that come with spring dressing, Simkhai wanted to experiment with fabric innovations using his signature materials, which often include heftier laces, knits, and leathers. (Clearly he’s more of a fall guy.) “I just wanted to try new things,” he said of the anti-spring direction. “I wanted to challenge myself. It was quite simple in a way.”
These days, seasons pretty much mean nothing, of course: consumers will happily buy coats in the dead of summer, or bikinis mid-winter. So Simkhai’s autumnal looks weren’t a total curveball for spring. His opener was a simple leather black T-shirt dress, complete with a peekaboo white hand-rolled chiffon fringe underneath. There was loads of leather to be had. For men, there were simple cream or black two-piece leather suits, which were very ’90s. For her, fully-fringed leather maxi dresses that swished and swept the floor as models walked. A few of the leather pieces ventured dangerously into Loewe or Celine territory—especially the boxier, colorful brushed-suede jackets, paired with high collared shirts—which felt a little less directional for Simkhai and more like he was trying to follow the pack.
Fringing is something Simkhai also brought into his knitwear assortment, via his sculptural, tiered tank dresses. Perhaps his most innovative approach to knitwear was the jelly-coated tanks, which looked like rubber but actually just came with a high-shine coating. Meaning, they’re still comfortable to wear. “It’s languid and not stiff at all,” he said. He also applied the jelly finish on top of denim pants and jackets. If you’re into looking vacuum-sealed, at least you don’t have to cram and tug yourself into them, like real latex demands.
The most technical offerings, meanwhile, came towards the end. On Simkhai’s moodboard this season were a variety of odd flowers—like pincushion flowers, which are prickly yet pretty—and he translated that inspiration into shaggy white tops and skirts made of strips of organza, chiffon, and paillettes. Cut on an asymmetrical hemline and paired with chic little satin tuxedo coats, they struck the right notes of formal yet fun. And 100 percent fab. Wear that, and you’ll be the life of any party.
