Frequently Asked Questions
Is there a wrinkle serum that really works?
That depends on how lofty your expectations are. If you’re expecting a swipe of serum to fully banish wrinkles, you’ll be disappointed. “There is no face serum or cream in an over-the-counter skin-care routine that will single-handedly remove or erase wrinkles,” says David Kim, MD, board-certified dermatologist in New York City. However, he notes that some ingredients can make them look softer, particularly tretinoin, which falls into a category known as retinoids—forms of vitamin A that include retinol, retinal, and prescription-strength tretinoin.
“Retinoids accelerate the skin’s natural exfoliation process, encouraging the shedding of dead skin cells and the growth of new ones,” explains Dr. Rabach. “This enhanced cell turnover leads to smoother, fresher skin and helps diminish the appearance of fine lines.” Retinoids also stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, says Sobel, which helps firm up skin laxity. “Along with a physical sunscreen, regular use of retinoids keeps the skin firmer for a longer period of time, which keeps the overall face looking more youthful,” adds Lesley Rabach, MD, double board-certified facial plastic surgeon based in New York City.
There are other ingredients that can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, including superstar antioxidant vitamin C. “Vitamin C is an amazing tool to help stabilize existing collagen and promote new collagen production,” says Dr. Lesley Rabach. “It also can help repair damaged skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.” Peptides—short chains of amino acids that build proteins—can help improve the appearance of wrinkles by boosting skin firmness and elasticity, reducing inflammation, and even limit muscle contractions (more on this shortly). For shallower, finer lines, you can try alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic and lactic acids to remove dead skin cells, which “can improve skin texture and reduce the visibility of wrinkles by making the skin smoother,” says Dr. Morgan Rabach. In short, while wrinkle serums aren’t necessarily miraculous (and certainly not instantaneous—building collagen takes time!), they can certainly make a difference.
What serum is closest to Botox?
You may have seen serums for wrinkles that are marketed as “Botox in a bottle” alternatives—these use active ingredients that function similarly to neurotoxins. “Argireline, or acetyl hexapeptide-8, works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters that signal muscles to contract,” explains Dr. Morgan Rabach. “This can help relax facial muscles, particularly in areas prone to expression lines, like around the eyes and forehead, and may reduce the appearance of lines in those areas.” According to Dr. Lesley, studies show this synthetic peptide can reduce wrinkle depth by up to 30%. Sobel adds that the peptide complex Matrixyl also offers impressive line-smoothing benefits.
Again, it’s important to have realistic expectations from a wrinkle serum. All our experts agree that no at-home product can truly substitute for Botox: “Topical wrinkle reducers will not be as effective as injected neurotoxin because injected neurotoxin is working at the level of the muscle,” explains Dr. Lesley Rabach. It’s also worth noting that while Botox effects aren’t immediate, they’ll still be visible much sooner than a topical, which builds over time with consistent use. Facial serums can serve as a nice complement to injectables, however. “Argireline and Matrixyl are excellent to use after Botox injections to extend their results,” says Dr. Sobel.
Is there anything to fill in deep wrinkles?
While ingredients like retinoids, peptides, and vitamin C can all help make deeper wrinkles appear shallower (building up your skin’s collagen will help smooth wrinkles out from the inside out), hyaluronic acid is often seen as a go-to choice for creases and folds. “Hyaluronic acid is a sugar molecule that increases the water content in the skin,” explains Dr. Lesley Rabach. “This improves the volume of the skin, making it appear plumper, which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
Dr. Kim points out that this boost in hydration solely helps wrinkles appear less deep—hyaluronic acid won’t fully address wrinkles. (For what it’s worth, many injectable fillers use hyaluronic acid to correct the look of deep lines by adding volume.) To really smooth out wrinkles with a hyaluronic acid-infused serum, make sure it’s formulated with ingredients that’ll help stimulate collagen production.
Meet the experts
- Paul Jarrod Frank, MD, aboard-certified dermatologist and founder of PFRANKMD based in New York City
- Shannon Humphrey, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Humphrey & Beleznay Cosmetic Dermatology based in British Columbia, Canada
- David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at IDRISS Dermatology based in New York City
- Lesley Rabach, MD, a double board-certified facial plastic surgeon at LM Medical based in New York City
- Morgan Rabach, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at LM Medical based in New York City
- Howard Sobel, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Lenox Hill Hospital based in New York City
- Connie Yang, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at PFRANKMD based in New York City
- Jane Yoo, MD, a dual board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon based in New York City
How we test and review products
When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle in an effort to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing each and every product that’s included in each and every review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.
For our list of the best wrinkle serums, we considered each product’s performance across five primary categories: product ingredients and efficacy, packaging, fragrance, texture, and product wear. Every product was determined to have excelled in each category by our editorial team, which is composed of in-house writers and editors as well as contributors—along with special consideration from board-certified dermatologists. To learn more information on our reporting and testing processes, read our complete reviews process and methodology page.
Our staff and testers
A beauty product is a personal purchase. You might be searching for a face cream to address persistent dryness or a new nail product to add to your Sunday self-care routine; you may simply be browsing around for the latest launches to hit the hair market. No matter what you seek or your individual needs and concerns, Allure wants to ensure that you love anything we recommend in our stories. We believe that having a diverse team of writers and editors—in addition to the wide range of outside testers and industry experts we regularly call upon—is essential to reaching that goal.
After all, can we really say a skin-care product is the “best” for people over 50 if the only testers we’ve solicited opinions from folks who have yet to hit 30? Can we honestly deem a high-end diffuser worthy of your hard-earned cash if it’s never been tested on curls? We’re proud that our staff spans a wide range of ages, skin tones, hair textures, genders, and backgrounds, which means that we are able to fairly assess any beauty product that comes into the beauty closet.
