Before, when we thought about derby shoes, images from other decades would come to mind: figures like Serge Gainsbourg and Fred Astaire, who made them popular in the 20th century. The flat’s flexible construction made it a favorite in the world of dance too. But last spring the shoe style took another leap forward when Ferragamo, Jacquemus, and JW Anderson featured them among their collections and started a full-on trend.
The momentum around derbies paused over summer—sandals always dominate the footwear scene as soon as the temperatures rise—but now that fall is here, the closed-toe shoe seems poised to make a big splash again. With their soft, flexible material, derby shoes follow the foot’s movement and allow for more comfortable walking. They also fit another trend gaining traction this season: the glove-like “barefoot” flats we’re seeing everywhere.
Not as formal as oxfords or traditional as classic loafers, derby shoes occupy a middle ground that makes them a very practical option for everyday wear. Their snug fit, open laces, and thin, flat soles makes them perfect for both weekdays at the office and weekends exploring the city on foot.
Black and white are dominating the shoe trend, though we’re seeing versions in red and dark brown also. This color palette allows you to style them a number of ways, from an autumnal preppy look to the purest minimalist outfit. Recent street style looks have confirmed the shoe’s comeback, and we’re seeing tons of fashionable women incorporating derbies into their looks. Emma Corrin recently wore them on the flight to the 2026 Venice Film Festival, for example.
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