Simone Rocha treats makeup like a fashion accessory. In past seasons, this concept has translated to face jewels and hand-painted rosettes. For the Irish designer’s Spring/Summer 2027 show at London Fashion Week, it was colorful beaded eyebrows.
“For Simone, we like to think of the makeup as an extension of the clothes or a fashion accessory,” lead makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver told TZR backstage at the Old Bailey. “There are a few bugle beads in the collection, so we picked up on that and created this sort of flower shape [for the brows].”
De Kluyver created two versions of the beaded brows, a colorful pink, green, and blue one that was reminiscent of flowers, and one that was silver with hints of champagne and mink. They were meticulously applied to select models based on what they were wearing from the collection. “There are lots of different textures with the beading to contrast and also sit nicely beside the collection,” he said.
The makeup artist also created two additional looks for models whose brows weren’t embellished. One was fresh-faced makeup and the other velvet red lips. “For this season we wanted to do something that felt very elevated and couture,” de Kluyver said of the overall direction.
After the skin was prepped with Dr. Barbara Sturm products, he used Byredo makeup to achieve both lips. For those with the more natural, dewy look, he rubbed the Byredo Lip Pencil in Pink into the lips to create a stain. To achieve the plush red lip, de Kluyver used the Byredo Lip Pencil Red and Byredo Liquid Lipstick Matte in Marriage. “We’re actually putting glue on top of it and a flocking [powder] to create the velvet texture,” he explained. “There’s a lot of velvet and roses in the collection, so we wanted to emulate the texture.”
Both the runway hair and makeup channeled the textures of the collection, too. Lead hairstylist Anthony Turner used Sebastian Professional products to craft ‘50s inspired French twists with swirls that mimicked rosebuds, while nail artist Ama Quashie created velvet manicures in navy, black, and red.
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