It’s been a big year for western fashion. Whether it’s the runways serving up double denim, or stars like Bella Hadid and Beyoncé embracing rodeo style, there’s been a real shift towards all things cowboy (and cowgirl)-inspired—and part of that movement is the enduring bolo tie.
The history of the bolo tie, which emerged in the Southwest, dates as far back as the 1940s. The piece was heavily popularized by Native American jewelers, especially amongst the Navajo, Hopi, and Zuni tribes; Historically, Indigenous men would wear bandanas around their necks, punctuated with shells or silver conches. In the decades since, the piece has evolved to be made with leather cords instead—an alternative to the traditional stuffy tie—and worn by cowboys while riding. And now, its stylish legacy is even the subject of a new book: The Rizzoli title, Bolo: Design, Style, Heritage, from author William Matthews, releases today.
Matthews, who is an artist by day, is a longtime bolo wearer and has been collecting them for over forty years—so naturally he was the right author to dive into the bolo’s unique beauty and history. “My father gave me my first bolo,” Matthews writes in the book’s introduction. “As an artist myself, with much of my life devoted to painting the wild lands and ranches of the West, I see bolos wherever I go. I have searched far and wide to find the most captivating and beautiful ones.”
Photo: Courtesy of Rizzoli/Wes Magyur and William Matthews
For longtime fans of the bolo tie, the new book—which includes a foreword by actor and singer Lyle Lovett—serves as a true visual feast. It features photographs of over 500 distinctive versions, some of them never seen or published before. The styles range from vibrant turquoise and coral styles to sleek silver or metal versions, or even bolos made of abalone shells or petrified wood, too.
Given its history, the book zeroes in on Native American artisans who have helped define and popularize the piece over the years. Featuring designs made by Hopi, Navajo, and Zuni artists, the book spans the regions and reflects a striking tapestry of different customs and traditions. “Native American art is some of the most beautiful work that has ever been created in this country,” writes Matthews. “My goal in producing this book, is to shed light on the amazing bolos that have been developed by the artists at the pueblos, on the reservations and throughout this country.”
