While some might see an obsession as a negative or unhealthy inclination, Chemena Kamali is choosing to see it as a good, nay, great thing. Indeed, obsessions can spark joy, inspiration, and creativity — not to mention Chloé’s latest collection for Spring/Summer 2027. In official show notes, the creative director explains the little things that she loves, in regards to both the brand and fashion in general.
“I wanted something deeply personal – to return to things I love, the emotions they trigger in me,” she says in the official notes for the Oct. 1 show, which took place at the L’Observatoire De Paris. “It felt liberating to work this way, to listen to the resonance of everything I feel for Chloé.”
This includes leaning into the romantic retro-bohemian aesthetic that the label is known for, but with a touch of Old World refinement. A shining example of this was the elaborately fringed skirt-and-pant sets topped with heavy, structured blouses that resembled neoclassic chandeliers set in neutral hues of mauve and vivid white. In the same vein, intricately embroidered dressing gowns with voluminous, puffed ruffled sleeves, corseted bodices, and lacy lingerie-inspired ball gowns with layered, bubbled silhouettes took a captivated audience back to 19th-century boudoirs.
“We precisely referenced 19th-century archival threadwork, translating it to fabrics ranging from the lightest of organzas to crisp, heavy cottons,” read the show notes.
It wouldn’t be a Kamali collection without a hefty dose of carefree bohemian spirit from yesteryear and Spring/Summer 2027 delivered in spades. Retro floral embroidery, whimsical scalloped collars, and fitted, tailored Bianca Jagger-inspired suiting (inspired by the label’s original 1972 ‘Noel’ suit) all felt like a welcome return to a simpler time, as well as a nod to the French brand’s “prêt-à-porter” roots.
Kamali is seemingly obsessed with throwback outerwear, as evidenced by the caped raincoats and coordinating wide-brimmed take on the “sou’wester” hat. “Over these silhouettes, I layered transparent vinyl in smoky shades drawing on the rainwear of the 1950s, to create graphic and sharp silhouettes,” explained Kamali in show notes.
Also worth noting was an emerging accessory trend already seen at Dior: the singular accent earring. While Anderson showcased models with trailing petal-adorned floral pieces, Kamali opted for heavily embellished shoulder-grazing jeweled statement styles worn on one ear. It’s only a matter of time until the it girls get the memo and start jumping on the single-earring bandwagon.
Ahead, highlights from Chloé’s obsession-worthy collection.
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