Curls are beautiful in all their forms, but finding the right routine to keep your hair happy and healthy can take some trial and error. Not only will you need to use products designed for your specific curl type, but you’ll also need to find the best technique. Many popular curly haircare methods exist, with one of the most buzz-worthy at the moment being a “curl cast.” This common technique enhances definition and is a good choice for anyone who wants their wash-and-go to last a little longer. Ahead, we asked three hairstylists for everything you need to know about a curl cast, including the best products to use and how long to leave it on your curls.
Meet the Experts
- Deisy Alfaro is a hairstylist, the owner and CEO of Pixie Glam Studio, and a curly hair expert for Dippity Do.
- Stanley Nolan is a cosmetologist and the beauty education specialist for the Ogle School.
- Harriet Kessie-Cudjoe is a hairstylist and the co-founder of AfroTherapy Salon.
What Is a Curl Cast?
Hairstylist Deisy Alfaro tells Byrdie that a curl cast is that slightly crunchy, stiff feeling you get when your hair is drying after applying styling products. “It can form after products such as gels, mousses, and foams have been applied to curls,” she explains. “The cast forms a protective shell around each curl while it dries, helping to lock in your curl pattern and prevent frizz.” Cosmetologist and Ogle School beauty education specialist Stanley Nolan says to think of a curl cast as a protective shell that sets the shape in place “until you break the cast and style your curls to your desired finish.
Benefits of a Curl Cast
A curl cast has many benefits, one of the most notable being longer-lasting definition. “They reduce frizz, help curls hold their shape for days, and add shine by sealing the cuticle,” Alfaro says. She recommends a curl cast to anyone who wants their wash day results to last, as it gives you bouncy definition instead of softer curls that can fall flat the next day.
Hairstylist and AfroTherapy salon co-founder Harriet Kessie-Cudjoe recommends a curl cast to all her clients, as it acts as a protective barrier that shields your hair from frizz, humidity, and friction. “Once your hair is dry, all you have to do is simply scrunch out the crunch to reveal soft, shiny, and defined curls,” she tells us.
How to Create a Curl Cast
According to Alfaro, the best products to use when creating a curl cast are foams, strong-hold gels, and styling custards. “I love layering a mousse on soaking wet hair, then going in with a gel for added hold and moisture,” she explains. “Once both of these products have been applied, you can use a Denman brush to help distribute evenly and clump curls.”
When it comes to creating a cast, Alfaro says that layering is key and you should always start with a foam product for volume, followed by a gel for hold. “This combination creates a nice, balanced cast without weighing down the hair,” she explains.
Nolan adds, “When layering products, remember that they should always be applied from lightest to heaviest based on their viscosity to ensure even distribution and to lock in your curl pattern for long-lasting wear.”
Kessie-Cudjoe’s top tip for anyone who wants to achieve a curl cast is to apply products to wet hair and avoid touching your hair while it’s drying. “That’s the magic that allows the cast to form,” she says.
The Setting Process
All our experts recommend letting a curl cast dry completely before touching or manipulating your curls. “This helps set the shape, reduce frizz, and lock in definition,” Nolan says. If the cast breaks too soon, it will interrupt the curl formation and introduce frizz. “You need to be sure that your hair is 100% dry before moving on to the next step,” Alfaro adds.
When it comes to how long a curl cast will take to form, this depends on how you’re drying your hair. “If you’re air-drying, then it might take between four and five hours for thicker hair. If you’re using a diffuser, then it can take an hour for a curl cast to form,” Kessie-Cudjoe tells us.
How to Break a Curl Cast
To break a curl cast, gently scrunch out the crunch with clean, dry hands or a bit of lightweight oil, just enough to add softness and separation. “I like using a shine serum or nourishing oil, especially something with argan or grapeseed oil,” Alfaro says. “Once you’ve applied oil or serum to your hair, flip your head upside down and scrunch gently from ends to roots. Fluff at the roots for volume: This is the moment when your curls will come alive.” If you want fluffier curls, Nolan suggests using a wide-tooth comb or pick to add volume and shape.
The Final Takeaway
A curl cast is ideal for anyone who wants defined curls that last for days. The key to achieving one lies in the type of products you use as well as how you apply them. Foam-based products should always be applied before gel-based ones for the best results. Additionally, ensure that the products you use offer a strong hold, as this will lock in your curl pattern and prevent frizz.
Achieving a curl cast won’t happen instantly, though. Depending on how you dry your hair, it could take up to five hours to get the defined, crunchy curls you want. Trust the process and remember that all curls are unique, so if you need to adjust your technique to find the right products and balance, don’t hesitate to do so.
