We love to test out the latest eye shadow trends, but not every tutorial will result in the same final look on every eye shape. Eye shadow for hooded eyes, for example, can come with some unique considerations.
The term ‘hooded eyes’ refers to a very common eye shape in which a fold of skin or soft tissue below the brow bone mostly or completely covers the upper eyelid when the eyes are open. Because of this, eye shadow applied directly to the eyelid may seem to “disappear,” and pigmented looks that extend beyond the crease into the brow bone can look fragmented.
“As someone who has hooded eyes, eye shadow–and really making it show up on the lid–has always been a challenge,” says professional makeup artist Kirin Bhatty. Product creasing within the eye’s natural fold can also be tricky, adds celebrity makeup artist Christian Briceno. But with the right techniques, you can create eye shadow looks that not only work with your lids, but make your eyes–and whole makeup look–pop. From bold swipes of color looks to soft shimmering glam, our experts share their best tips and favorite products for applying eye shadow to hooded eyes.
How should you prep your lids for eye shadow?
“A smooth base is everything,” Briceno says. “I always start with an eye primer to control oil and give the Eye shadow something to grab onto.” He prefers Urban Decay’s Primer Potion or NARS Smudgeproof Eyeshadow Base, and notes that if the client’s lids are especially oily, he’ll set the primer with a touch of translucent powder before adding shadow. “That little step makes blending easier and keeps everything locked down,” he says.
Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion
NARS Pro-Prime Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base
How should you apply eye shadow to hooded eyes for the best results?
If you want to maximize your eye shadow look on hooded lids, experts recommend investing in a fluffy, tapered brush. “This tool allows you to exaggerate your lid crease, without creating any harsh lines as the brush is very airy and light,” Bhatty says. Briceno recommends using the MAC 217S Blending Brush to pat the product on first, then softly blend out the edges–swiping the product back and forth can muddy the look and decrease the product’s integrity on the skin. “With hooded eyes, I’ll cheat the crease by going slightly higher so the color still shows when eyes are open,” he says.
MAC 217 Synthetic Blending Brush
How can you make sure your eye shadow lasts?
Briceno emphasizes that the longevity of a hooded eye shadow look depends on the care you take in applying it: “It’s about layering thin, even amounts of product–creams first, then set them with powders in the same tone so they reinforce each other.” While Bhatty also highlights the importance of skin prep and product application, she also recommends finishing your eye shadow look with a mist of an ultra-fine setting spray, like the Dior Forever Perfect Fix. “The goal is grip without weight,” Briceno agrees.
Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Setting Spray
Which eye shadow looks work best on hooded eyes?
For certain looks, Bhatty says that “creating the illusion of more eyelid space is key.” To accomplish this, she starts by applying deeper shadows along the lash line, then blending upward to create a gradient of shadow that extends beyond the natural crease. “Neutral-to-deep gradients always photograph beautifully on hooded eyes,” Briceno notes. He also says that using matte shades in and above the natural lid crease gives instant definition. For everyday eye shadow looks which catch light and crease minimally, Briceno reaches for Mineral Fusion quad eye shadow palettes in shades Soiree and Coffee Break.
Mineral Fusion Eyeshadow Palette
For softer, more ethereal glam, a hint of sparkle also works beautifully with hooded eyes. To maximize these products, Briceno recommends keeping shimmer “only on the movable lid or inner corner of the eye, so it highlights without overwhelming.” When applying any metallic product, Bhatty uses her finger to press on the product to enhance control and limit transfer.
Urban Decay Naked3 Mini Eye Shadow Palette
MAC Cosmetics Dazzleshadow Eye Shadow Stick
If bold Eye shadow looks are your thing, you can have a lot of fun experimenting with different shapes on hooded eyes. To exaggerate the eyes, Briceno recommends trying elongated or lifted Eye shadow looks, a soft wing of shadow or a smoky lower lash line. Focusing on the lower lid–whether that means defining the waterline with a fine pencil brush, or brushing a subtler shade under the lashes–can add drama to your eye shadow look without relying fully on upper lid space.
Violette_FR Yeux Paint Liquid Eyeshadow
Lorac Pro Matte & Shimmer Eye Shadow Palette
No eye shadow look is off limits for hooded eyes. With these expert-backed products and techniques–and hopefully, some inspiration to try a new look–your eye shadow game is set to peak just in time for smoky season.
Grace McCarty is the associate beauty editor at Glamour.
