It depends on the pigmentation in question. “Over-the-counter face serums can be effective, especially for milder cases of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Danilo; these include acne scars or minor skin wounds. That’s because the melanin is in the epidermis, or most superficial, layer of skin.
On the other hand, “pigmentation disorders caused by deposition of melanin in deeper layers of the skin, which is more rarely seen, will not respond to these types of topical treatments and should be evaluated by a board-certified dermatologist,” says Dr. Park. “For a condition like melasma which is environmentally dependent, it is a chronic struggle that will unfortunately worsen at times.”
Also, if you experience recurrent hyperpigmentation stemming from a repeat cause—for instance, acne continuously pops up, creating new dark spots—then a visit to the dermatologist is recommended so you can address the underlying issue (in this case, the acne).
Finally, keep in mind that addressing hyperpigmentation is a commitment. “Any treatment used for dyspigmentation will realistically take weeks to months and require consistent use,” says Dr. Park. “Results are not immediate, but gradual.” And on that note, to both see and maintain results, using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher is critical. “Without consistent sun protection, it’s very hard to see significant improvements, as UV exposure can quickly undo the progress made by serums,” says Dr. Del Campo.
