The current political and economic climate is, well, challenging. But rather than lean into a doom-and-gloom spirit this season, Jonathan Simkhai aimed to lift spirits with his new beachy spring collection. The designer wanted to inject his new pieces with a sense of joy and ease, and given he’s California-based, he looked to that L.A. sense of easy coastal living to do so. “I have so many memories of being with my family by the beach, just feeling refreshed and having a glow from the sun,” he said. He envisioned his customers having that same feeling while wearing his new assortment of unfussy, seaside-inspired clothes.
Inevitably, references images from Venice Beach and the 2005 film film Lords of Dogtown made it onto Simkhai’s moodboard. That summery spirit shined through quite literally, maybe too literally, on some of the pieces, like a mini dresses covered in cascading shimmering sequins—resembling the scales of a fish, especially the aqua-blue style. Simkhai also drew from swimwear silhouettes, reworking bodysuits in cozy cable knits. His version of summer dresses were also designed in Guipuire laces. “I always try to incorporate elements of lace or embroideries into the collection,” he said. “My grandfather had a lace mill in Tehran in the ’70s.”
Simkhai also drew from vintage references. As a Californian who regularly thrifts at the Rose Bowl, he was inspired to inject his staples with a sense of retro appeal. “I love the idea of the clothes feeling really polished, but then also elements of them doing undone and unraveling—almost like they were washed up ashore,” he said. His distressed denims, all stressed and torn at the knee, reflected this—as did his crinkled-leather shirts. On some of his netted dresses, little golden shell charms were racked on—as though a fishing net, all tangled up, washed ashore on the beach. Ditto for his mother of pearl tops: the pieces were linked-together to form a statement top, in the vein of a Paco Rabanne.
Simkhai’s accessories this season matched the vacation spirit. He designed structured leather net bags, and presented his version of the enduring flip-flop trend, adding a sculptural wedge to some styles. In these, you could imagine yourself on a tropical getaway, without having to actually go anywhere. “I love to use fashion as a form of mood-lifting,” Simkhai said. “As a fashion designer, I’m not a doctor or a politician—but I can make people feel good, and give them armor to take on the day.” Perhaps it’s not a groundbreaking design direction, but you can admire the smile-inducing approach.
