Perhaps it’s because Valentino just re-opened Studio 54 a few days ago (for an exclusive one-night-only bash), but Sergio Hudson’s new spring assortment of tailoring and evening gowns, debuted on the runway tonight, seemed perfectly suited for a raucous night out at the historic dance club. That is, if Studio 54 had survived well into the late 1980s: Hudson combined his signature clean, well-structured aesthetic with a heavy dash of ’80s maximalism, infusing his statement looks with brazen zebra prints, loads of sequins, and chunky gold jewelry.
Think: Clothes you could imagine style icons like Diana Ross, Grace Jones, and Bianca Jagger all wearing back then—but also now, given how modern the ensembles felt. It was a fun and theatrical approach for Hudson, who typically leans into sleek American sportswear and more reserved suiting. After all, Hudson’s classic, well-cut suits have appeared on the likes of Michelle Obama—but tonight, it was clear that he was ready for a little more fun. Who else could take on a sense of tacky factor, like big gold exposed zippers, and make them feel chic?
Hudson’s opening look said it all: a saucy little zebra-printed shirt dress, finished with cargo pockets and a wide metallic belt. The animal prints—a staple of the 1980s—continued on with his leopard two-piece suits, cut just right with a sheen that made them feel expensive. Denim, another touchpoint of the decade, appeared via tight pencil skirts, or looser-fitting bomber jackets.
The approach to suiting up was, as usual, the strong point. These were not your boring corporate-feeling uniforms to be worn by, say, an HR manager. Skirt suits were extra short and in silky acid yellows. For men, there was glossy emerald, with a low-cut silky tee, versus a hum-drum collared shirt and tie. Hudson has always dabbled in doing menswear, but his extremely dapper looks this evening reminded one that he should do it way more often, balancing the right notes of classic cuts with contemporary flourishes.
The evening gowns, meanwhile, were well-aimed at the many celebrities in his front row this evening, all of whom likely texted images of his new dresses to their stylists. (Mary J. Blige, June Ambrose, Natasha Lyonne, and more were in the house.) The most red carpet-worthy were his totally-sequined column gowns, in fun shades like sky blue or bright purple—like a wearable disco ball. As Prince blasted on the speakers during the finale, all these dazzling numbers needed was a dance floor.
