A fashion fact you may not know: Denim has a notoriously heavy environmental footprint, requiring more than 1,500 gallons of water to produce just one pair of jeans, notes Meghan Gordon, DL1961’s chief marketing officer. “Historically, denim is one of the most polluting categories of clothing,” she tells TZR. Still, given its timeless, versatile appeal, it’s safe to say the fabric isn’t going anywhere. Which begs the question: Is creating sustainable denim actually possible? Luckily, according to experts, there have been meaningful strides in making the garment more eco-friendly.
But first, how is denim traditionally made? In simple terms: “Denim starts with cotton that’s spun into yarn, dyed, woven into a twill fabric, and then cut-and-sewn into jeans,” explains Dr. Jesse Daystar, the vice president and chief sustainability officer of Cotton Incorporated. “Many of the biggest impacts can come from dyeing and finishing, energy use in mills and factories, and the multiple wash cycles used to create ‘worn-in’ looks.” However, over the past decade, Dr. Daystar notes that the industry has worked to reduce those impacts.
“Mills now use lower-water finishing methods such as laser and ozone treatments, enzyme washes, and precision foam or spray dye applications, along with improved water recycling and wastewater treatment,” he explains. Meanwhile, on the farm side, Dr. Daystar notes that U.S. growers have adopted practices that reduce inputs and improve efficiency, pointing to the U.S. Cotton Trust Protocol, which tracks sustainability improvements across domestic cotton production.
Dana Davis, the former VP of sustainability at Mara Hoffman, emphasizes that transparency is key when shopping for eco-friendly denim. “Because [fabric] labeling can be tricky in this space, do a bit of research into how a brand sources its materials,” she says. “If a brand is open about where its products are made and who they’re made with, it’s a strong sign it’s committed to more sustainable practices.”
Below, learn more about how denim brands are moving the needle toward a more sustainable future.
Fabrics & Production
Over the years, DL1961 has focused heavily on reducing water usage, lowering the industry standard from roughly 1,500 gallons per pair to closer to 1,000. How? “It all starts with raw materials,” Gordon explains. “A lot of the fibers we use, like premium cotton and TENCEL™ Lyocell, are ultra-absorbent and require significantly less water.” Meanwhile, Arif Gasilov, sustainability and ESG strategy partner at consultancy Gasilov Group, says organic cotton uses 90% less water than conventional cotton in the growing phase. “Brands like Levi’s and Nudie have moved meaningful percentages of their supply to organic or recycled cotton,” he explains.
DL1961, for its part, has partnered with Recover, a material science company based in Spain. “They’re able to take materials with cotton content from landfills, sort them by color, and break them down,” she says. “This technology can extract the cotton and separate it from other fibers, allowing you to reuse up to 30% of that material.” In turn, this process helps divert waste from landfills and reduces greenhouse gases.
There are, of course, certain fabrics to avoid if your goal is to purchase sustainable denim. “Try to limit the amount of polyester or Spandex in your jeans, because that’s made out of plastic and it’s not biodegradable,” Gordon notes, adding that, in contrast, cotton and TENCEL™ Lyocell are biodegradable, meaning they can break down naturally into nontoxic components.
Then there’s the dye to consider. “Synthetic indigo is petroleum-based and filled with harmful chemicals like formaldehyde,” Davis explains. However, she notes that some companies are developing bio-based indigo — an eco-friendly dye created through industrial fermentation using renewable resources rather than petrochemicals. Gasilov brings up two other eco-friendly alternatives: “Newer methods like foam dyeing (Wrangler’s process uses 99% less water than conventional dyeing) and supercritical CO2 dyeing (which is completely waterless and recycles 95% of the CO2 used) are starting to replace [conventional dyeing processes].”
Finishing Techniques
Innovative finishing techniques (where denim’s “look” often comes from) are changing the way denim is made — for the better. “While some older methods were resource-intensive, many of today’s effects can be achieved with processes designed to use less water and fewer harsh chemicals,” notes Dr. Daystar. Laser finishing, for instance, creates fades and patterns with minimal water and reduced chemical use.
“Ozone washing can reduce water use and the need for certain bleaching agents,” he adds. Gordon says DL1961 employs the technology, noting, “It creates the wear and tear you want in your jeans, without as much water.” Then there are enzyme washes, which, according to Dr. Daystar, replace harsher chemicals to achieve softening and abrasion effects.
Upcycled Denim Market
The upcycled denim market is also booming, notes Alyssa Hardy, the author of WORN OUT: How Our Clothes Cover Up Fashion’s Sin and Teen Vogue’s digital director. “I think it’s amazing — obviously, we want people to be making less, but the end product [of upcycled denim] can be just as good as something new,” she says. “That’s a really great development.” One brand leading the charge is aligrace, which has been repurposing vintage denim since 2018. Ali Grace, the label’s founder and CEO, believes Gen Z is behind the surge in upcycled fashion. “There’s a lot of care behind their purchasing decisions, and they’re trying to put their money into something that will last and something they feel good about,” she notes.
Taking Care Of Your Denim
Taking care of your denim is half the battle, and according to Gordon, you rarely need to wash it. For stains, she suggests simply spot-treating the area. However, if your jeans are in desperate need of a clean, washing on cold is essential as it preserves their color, prevents shrinkage, and maintains the fabric’s shape and fit. And never, ever throw your denim in the dryer, advises Gordon. “Heat breaks down the fibers, causing a slow death to your jeans,” she says. Instead, hang-dry your denim to avoid any potential damage.
How To Dispose Of Your Jeans
When it comes to disposing of your jeans, Gordon doesn’t recommend going straight to Goodwill, noting that many donation centers have become saturated with product. Instead, consider passing them along to someone who can give them a second life. Another option: Work with a local organization where you know the items will be put to good use. “We have FABSCRAP here in New York, where they repurpose fabric for fashion students,” she adds. Or, of course, there are resale platforms like Poshmark, Depop, and ThredUp.
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