What’s the vibe?
Santani is situated in one of the most picturesque settings for a retreat I’ve ever seen: Its dramatic central building of metal, glass, and salvaged timber is set upon the peak of a dramatic ridge, while the 18 villas for guests spill across its sides, ensuring panoramic views across the lush terraced tea fields from every corner of the property. (My favorite spot to hang out every afternoon was the pool situated at the highest point of the property, where you could listen to Buddhist chants from nearby temples drifting on the breeze.)
The spa itself is part of an enormous open-air complex that includes an expansive yoga pavilion, as well as an entire floor dedicated to treatment rooms that open up directly into the jungle. Before every treatment, you’re encouraged to soak in the mineral pool, watching vividly-colored butterflies flap by or monkeys swinging through the canopies—during one afternoon sauna session, an especially bold macaque pressed its paw to the glass—or tune out to the sound of tropical birds. The word Edenic doesn’t even cover it.
It’s also very fairly priced, which makes for an enjoyable mix of guests. I am, admittedly, not always the most sociable person on vacation, but the group yoga sessions and intimate nature of the place led to me striking up plenty of friendly conservations with everyone from an American couple in their twenties on a month-long trip through South Asia who had decided to splurge for a few nights, to a German mother and daughter who were hardcore yogis and staying at the resort for two weeks. If you want to go about your days in total seclusion, that’s entirely possible too. If you book a room in one of the villas located a 10-minute walk or buggy ride up the road, which come with their own private pools, it’s even easier.
Photo: Courtesy of Santani
The history?
Santani was first established in 2016 by the Sri Lankan entrepreneur Vickum Nawagamuwage, who enlisted the help of architect Thisara Thanapathy to realize his vision of an “architecture of silence” where guests could truly switch off. (There’s no Wi-Fi in the guest rooms, and in lieu of air conditioning, the rooms have been cleverly designed to harness the natural ventilation of the winds that sweep through the neighboring valley.) Over the past decade, it’s developed a well-earned reputation as Sri Lanka’s very best wellness resort, and there are plans to expand the resort further in the coming years. Special mention again, here, for the food—whether you’re on a health-conscious meal plan for the week or are keen to sample one of the extensive, Michelin-level (but still very much nutrition-focused) tasting menus.
