Frequently asked questions
How do hair growth oils work exactly?
Not all hair growth oils are created equally, but many share similar mechanisms. For instance, some oils—like coconut oil or olive oil—mainly function as emollients that hydrate the scalp and protect the hair shaft, helping restore the scalp skin barrier, reduce breakage, and improve overall hair strength, says Dr. Kobets. However, “other oils such as rosemary or tea tree oil have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties that can help control dandruff or scalp irritation, which may otherwise contribute to hair shedding.” And yet other botanical oils, including rosemary and peppermint, “stimulate follicles through improved microcirculation, antioxidant activity, and modulation of inflammatory or hormonal pathways involved in hair loss.”
Although oils do show promise, it’s not just simple single oils that are the most impressive. Dr. Kobets explains, “in addition to oils, many modern hair growth products include peptides that signal follicles to remain in the growth phase, humectants like glycerin and panthenol that hydrate the scalp, ceramides and fatty acids that strengthen the scalp barrier, and antioxidants that protect follicles from oxidative damage.” Other formulas also incorporate caffeine, niacinamide, plant stem-cell extracts, or botanical actives, which may help improve circulation and support the hair growth cycle, she adds. “Together, these ingredients work to optimize scalp health and follicle function, which can support healthier hair growth over time and can complement over-the-counter, medical, and cosmetic treatments.”
Why are natural oils used for hair growth?
“Hair oils offer a holistic approach for faster hair regrowth without any side effects,” says Leah Kay, a lead stylist at Hair Lounge NYC. In addition to helping alleviate some scalp conditions, “oils penetrate the hair shaft to help lock in hydration to leave them softer and more resilient.” They can also be used as a leave-in conditioner to make hair more manageable and easier to detangle. All these factors create an environment that fosters growth and strengthens length over time. William Gaunitz, WTS, a certified trichologist, says essential oils can also help prevent seborrheic dermatitis (a scalp rash condition), psoriasis, dandruff, itchy scalps, and hair loss.
Just keep in mind that research on natural oils for hair growth is limited. “Unfortunately, these hair oils haven’t gone through rigorous FDA clinical trials,” says Ross Kopelman, MD, a hair transplant surgeon and hair loss expert with Kopelman Hair Restoration. And the research that does exist shows that while some of them can be legitimately helpful, they are not more effective than traditional pharmaceuticals taken for hair growth, including oral minoxidil, finasteride, or dutasteride, he says. Still, they may be worth a shot. “I do believe that hair oils can be effective, and sometimes my philosophy is, throw the kitchen sink at your hair,” Dr. Kopelman says. In some cases, the best approach is to combine multiple strategies to combat hair loss, including pharmaceuticals and natural hair oils.
How long does it take for oils to regrow hair?
“It depends on the type of hair and the reason for the loss,” Dr. Henry says. Dr. Woolery-Lloyd gives a more concrete number, saying, “In general, with any product used for hair growth, it takes 1-3 months to see reduced shedding and 6 months to see significant hair growth.” She adds that while topical products like oils may help support the scalp environment, it’s important to remember that hair thinning is often influenced by internal factors such as stress, nutrition, hormones, and metabolism. Because of that, she says, “I also recommend a whole-body, inside-out approach that addresses the root contributors to hair health, alongside supportive topical care.”
What oils or ingredients should you stay away from if your goal is hair growth?
The health of your scalp is essential, and fragrance, along with other known irritants, can pose a threat to that. “It’s best to avoid products with heavily fragranced essential oils or irritating ingredients, which can trigger scalp irritation or inflammation and potentially worsen hair shedding,” says Dr. Kobets. In particular, “contact dermatitis can occur when using undiluted essential oils like oregano oil or cinnamon oil,” flags Dr. Woolery-Lloyd.
Some oils can actually do more harm than good. Dr. Kobets warns that very heavy oils or those that are formulated with occlusive ingredients may also clog follicles and contribute to folliculitis, particularly in people with oily scalps. She recommends limiting the use of harsh detergents, such as sodium lauryl sulfate or ammonium laureth sulfate, in shampoos and scalp products, as they can strip natural scalp oils and lead to dryness and irritation.
“Also, although olive oil is often recommended for hair due to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties,” she adds, “I recommend limiting or avoiding it for patients who have oily types of dandruff, because it can worsen scalp dandruff and inflammation by feeding yeast overgrowth.”
Overall, she says, “the goal is to maintain a balanced scalp environment—hydrated but not overly oily—and avoid ingredients that may disrupt the scalp barrier (such as buildup from dry shampoo or other styling products, especially if using only sulfate-free shampoos) or trigger inflammation.”
What is the difference between carrier and essential hair oils?
There are two different types of natural oils: carrier oils and essential oils. Carrier oils are extracted from the fatty parts of plants, like seeds and nuts (think olives for olive oil or coconuts for coconut oil). They tend to be thicker and odorless, and are especially helpful with hydrating the scalp.
On the other hand, essential oils are extracted from flowers, leaves, and stems (like rosemary and castor oil). They are highly fragrant and require dilution with carrier oils before topical application. (“If you use [essential oils] solely themselves, they can be very irritating to the scalp,” Dr. Kopelman warns.) When massaged onto the scalp, these oils increase blood flow and stimulate the hair follicles, which can help hair grow. Plus, they have antifungal and antimicrobial properties that can help prevent dandruff and are rich in fatty acids to promote growth.
How do natural oils improve hair and scalp health?
When applied to the scalp, certain natural oils can calm irritation, fight off unwanted bacteria that cause scalp issues, deliver important fatty nutrients directly to the hair root, and stimulate blood flow, says Gaunitz. These healing properties can treat several dermatological conditions that can hinder hair growth, such as psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, dandruff, cicatricial alopecia, and overall hair loss, he says. Essential oils, including tea tree, lavender, and clove oils, can also zap fungi, which eliminates excess sebum and oily hair. When it comes to your strands, “almost all natural oils will provide a degree of protection to the hair shaft (the part of the hair that sticks out of the surface of the skin), thereby protecting it from breakage caused by heat, color, and pollution,” says Elizabeth Geddes-Bruce, MD, a board-certified dermatologist.
Beyond that, hair oils that are natural DHT blockers–including pumpkin seed oil, rosemary oil, and saw palmetto–help block dihydrotestosterone, a hormone that is a major contributor to hair loss, Dr. Kopelman explains.
Villena adds that what the oils are formulated with is super important too: “To get the maximum benefits of these extracts, it is best to combine them with modern ingredients, such as peptides.” The reason: peptides can act as chemical messengers to the body, and in the case of hair, can directly target the follicle to stimulate growth, while oil alone works to promote a healthy environment for hair growth. Pair the two together, and you get more comprehensive results.
What is the best way to apply natural oils for hair growth?
When integrating oils into your hair-care routine, Kay suggests starting slow to see the effect on your hair health. Apply too much oil or too frequently, and you risk weighing down your hair or causing buildup on the scalp that can worsen dandruff and itch, Emmanuel says. Dr. Kopelman suggests starting with a patch test to make sure you’re not allergic to the oil, and then start by applying it once a week. Massage the product into your scalp for about five to 10 minutes and leave it there for no longer than 30 minutes. Afterwards, wash it out. If you tolerate it well, gradually increase your usage.
And most importantly, remember that consistency is key. “Consistency in routine matters more than overnight miracles; scalp care is a long game,” says Míriam Freixa Villena, a chemist and the R&D manager for hair brand Tara Formula. “If you’re using hair oils to grow your hair and keep your hair healthy, it’s like a lifelong commitment,” Dr. Kopelman says. It’s like brushing your teeth.” And be sure to keep the scalp clean along the way. While it’s helpful for hair growth to apply these scalp treatments and oils, you also want to avoid build-up, which will do the opposite of encouraging healthy hair growth. So keep up with thorough hair washing and maintain a clear scalp in between oil treatments.
We tested natural oils for hair growth by incorporating them into our hair routines as directed for each product. We sought out expert-recommended, clinically tested ingredients such as rosemary, jojoba, and castor oils, among others. When it came to application, we tested sprays, pumps, and droppers and evaluated which worked best for our personal preferences, accounting for various hair types and textures. The best ones left our hair feeling soft and our scalp soothed, set the stage for healthy hair growth, and proved effective after multiple uses.
- Kseniya Kobets, MD, board-certified dermatologist and Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care
- Michelle Henry, MD, Harvard-trained Mohs surgeon and board-certified dermatologist in New York City
- Heather Woolery-Lloyd, MD, board-certified dermatologist and Chief Medical Advisor at Nutrafol
- Ross Kopelman, MD, a hair transplant surgeon and hair loss expert with Kopelman Hair Restoration
- Elizabeth Geddes-Bruce, MD, board-certified dermatologist
- William Gaunitz, WTS, a certified trichologist and founder of Advanced Trichology Products
- Leah Kay is a lead stylist at Hair Lounge NYC
- Míriam Freixa Villena is a chemist and the R&D manager for hair brand Tara Formula
