“There is more awareness of the role that Indian artisans play in Western haute couture, but I think it’s just the start of the conversation,” says US-based digital fashion commentator Hanan Besovic. “Too many houses need to acknowledge that a lot of their craft has been done in India. But as far as the perception of fashion goes, I do think this [uptick in Indian designers at couture] has been eye-opening.”
When commerce meets a cultural moment
Indian designers are increasingly being recognized not just for their craftsmanship, but for their creative vision, and Paris Couture Week has played a large role in that perception change. For Gupta, whose brand has dressed Beyoncé, Queen Latifah, Serena Williams and Aishwarya Rai, the calendar offers “an unparalleled global platform”.
“It allows buyers, clients, and industry leaders to engage with the brand at its highest expression. For us, the growth of our demi-couture and eveningwear categories internationally has gone hand in hand with showing in Paris,” Gupta says. “The visibility of the calendar has helped introduce the brand to a much wider audience, while our retail expansion has given those clients a way to access the work. The two have reinforced each other.”
Gupta, whose brand is carried in retailers from Bergdorf Goodman in New York to Vakko in Istanbul, is opening his Paris atelier during couture week; though he is not showing, his presence during the week will still be felt. It reflects, he says, “our long-term commitment to building a truly global luxury house from India”.
India has its own couture week, held in Delhi each July. But it’s more localized: for buyers unable to travel to every fashion week, Paris Couture Week serves as a discovery platform. The event “has become increasingly international over the past decade, evolving beyond its traditional Parisian roots to showcase exceptional craftsmanship and creativity from around the world,” Simon Longland, director of fashion buying at Harrods (which stocks Gaurav Gupta and has previously hosted a special event with Manish Malhotra). The inclusion of Indian designers, he adds, brings “a unique perspective rooted in extraordinary artisanal expertise, particularly in embroidery, embellishment and handwork techniques refined over generations. Their presence enriches the couture conversation and adds a distinct cultural dimension to the week.”
