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When you think of traveling to Europe, you’d be forgiven for thinking summer is when to go — and, in many ways, it is. For a lot of people, it’s an easy time of year to take vacation, and you’re practically guaranteed warm, sunny weather.
But summertime, as I learned a few years ago on a trip to Italy, also comes with searing heat, impossible to navigate crowds, and peak-season rates. That’s why I resolved to do things differently for my next overseas jaunt to Europe and why, when I went to Mallorca in October, I was pleasantly surprised to discover the joys of traveling during shoulder season: Early fall is still warm, but (mostly) not oppressively hot, the tourists are (mostly) gone, and eye-popping prices are (mostly) a thing of the past.
Christina Amoroso
My husband and I were invited to stay at Zafiro Palace Andratx, about a half hour west of Palma and part of the Zafiro group of hotels, a sustainability-focused and family-owned group of 14 properties across Mallorca and Menorca. Located in the small resort village of Camp de Mar, it’s an ideal area to stay if you like staying close to the sea and want to be near a big city (me) but don’t necessarily need to be in the thick of the hustle and bustle. You’ll find a beach within walking distance and hiking trails of varying lengths and difficulties, which was perfect for my outdoorsy husband and his lie-by-the-poolside-loving wife. Ahead, everything we loved about the experience.
The Rooms
Zafiro Palace Andratx Media Photos
We stayed at the Zafiro Club, an all-inclusive part of the property which affords you a private pool and concierge — super responsive via WhatsApp — to help with booking reservations (Zafiro Club guests get preferential bookings at the property’s restaurants), as well as scheduling activities. It’s quiet and peaceful, and a welcome respite from the main pool areas which can get crowded (although never obnoxious), with folks staking out lounge chairs early in the day. There’s also a dedicated food cart where you can order snacks and drinks until 6 p.m. every day. (My late-afternoon poolside chicken skewer still lives rent-free in my mind, but the menu is sizable and includes quesadillas and burgers as well as heartier fare like fajitas, salads, and poke bowls.)
In your suite, you’ll be greeted with fresh flowers and a welcome bottle of wine, as well as nightly treats before turndown and Jo Loves bathroom amenities. Room sizes vary, but ours had spacious sleeping quarters, as well as a roomy sitting area and terrace with views of the port and the mountains. I enjoyed sitting outside where I could read with a view, and we also had a private jacuzzi up a short flight of stairs. Certain suites come with your own private pool, if you’re seeking an even more intimate experience.
Another bonus: A stay at the Zafiro Club includes a 25-minute couples’ massage at the resort’s spa, which my jet-lagged husband and I enjoyed on our first day — it couldn’t have come at a better time after flying overnight. The spa also offers a variety of other treatments depending on what you’re looking for, as well as an indoor pool with mountain views to soak in, literally and figuratively.
The Restaurants
Zafiro Palace Andratx Media Photos
The property is home to several restaurants, with cuisines focusing on steak (Caliu Steakhouse), seafood (Mare Nostrum), Italian cuisine (La Veranda), and sushi (Tastes & Sushi). We also took advantage of the breakfast spread at the Market each morning, where you can enjoy omelets made to order, meats and cheeses — yes, I did eat my body weight in jamon iberico — as well as fresh fruit and tons of green and fruit juices, including the freshest OJ I’ve ever had. If you’re feeling a bit louche, regular or pink Cava is free-flowing.
We enjoyed our favorite meals at Caliu Steakhouse, where I ordered a perfectly medium rare sirloin and a Greek salad, as well as the Tastes & Sushi, where we nibbled on lobster and California rolls, chicken satay, and a mango salad. Each restaurant offers sweeping views of the port and the mountains, along with a welcome glass of Cava. (If you’re not drinking, we were pleasantly surprised to discover non-alcoholic Tanqueray, which is perfect for a booze-free G&T and comes about as close to the real thing as one can find.)
The Activities
Zafiro Palace Andratx Media Photos
You could easily spend your entire stay relaxing by the many pool areas with a book and a cocktail by your side, and I wouldn’t blame you. But Zafiro Palace Andratx can also hook you up with several activities, including an island tour by an electric llaüt, which leaves from the next town over (an easy 10-minute taxi ride away). We did a late morning trip with a guide who gave us a tour of the island and found us the perfect swimming hole, where we dropped anchor and jumped in the Mediterranean.
The hotel will also assist with booking a rental car, which we used to take a couple of trips to Deia, a small coastal cliffside village in the Serra de Tramuntana mountains about an hour away. Deia has been a longtime respite for creatives, including the late writer Robert Graves, who spent the second half of his life there, and whose house you can tour. And there’s no need to worry about finding your way around: The roads are very well-marked and easy to navigate, which is all the more reason to take the less-traveled coastal route back — while it takes a bit longer, the sweeping Mediterranean views are well worth it, and you’ll find many vistas along the way to pull over and snap a photo or five.
Christina Amoroso
On our second trip to Deia, we stopped for dinner at a cozy, family-run restaurant, Sebastian, at the recommendation of a friend. Its menu focuses on seasonal ingredients, and we enjoyed the duck breast special with basil gnocchi, guinea fowl, fig salad, and carrot soup with cardamom. The setting is intimate and if you sit outside, you’ll enjoy views of the mountains, ideal around sunset.
Back in Andratx, you can hike to the tower of Cap Andritxol, which provides views of the port. It’s a relatively easy trek up and takes about an hour or so, and if you want to cool off on the way back, take a detour to Caló d’en Monjo, a small peaceful beach and swimming nook, where you can splash in the sea. (If you’re a movie buff like my husband, you may recognize the location as a filming location for the 1982 Agatha Christie film murder mystery film Evil Under the Sun.)
The Takeaway
My husband and I were really glad we stayed at the adults-only Zafiro Club. The main property is a great choice for families, (remember, Mallorca is an easy weekend jaunt from England, the way Florida is an easy weekend jaunt from the Northeast), but the Club is ideal for those seeking something a little more intimate and serene. Our only regret? That we didn’t stay a day or two longer: We both wished we’d sprung for one more day of sightseeing and one more day of lounging by the pool — the ideal combo of stimulation and rejuvenation.
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