To explore the merits of a cave feels a touch silly. On the one hand, caves are humanity’s oldest architecture. Demonstrably a big deal! But on the other hand, when’s the last time any of us were actually in one? For most, the answer is not recently. But if you’re like me and have discovered the otherworldly delights of tasting wine underground, the conversation topic of caves isn’t so silly after all. On a purely logistical level, the practice of storing wine in a subterranean chamber is useful for maintaining cool, consistent temperatures that are conducive to aging wine. But from a theatrical standpoint, the opportunity to descend into the earth, wander through dark corridors, and sample historic bottles by candlelight? That’s an experience I’d suggest prioritizing.
For many, wine tasting as a weekend pursuit typically evokes pastoral verandas overlooking rolling vineyards, with lots of sunshine. That’s all well and good, but there’s something about the cave—so moody, so mysterious—that sets the soul alight. The first time this sentiment rang true was on a visit to Champagne several years ago, deep within the wine region’s iconic crayères. These tunnels date back to the Roman era when Cretaceous chalk was quarried, in part, to build the city above. Well over a thousand years later, the crayères found a new purpose: to store and age Champagne. Stepping through these ancient passageways, palming limestone walls so soft and moist that chalk deposited onto my fingertips, it felt like pure, unadulterated time travel. How more people aren’t hanging out in wine caves is beyond me.
Photo: Leif Carlsson for Champagne Billecart-Salmon
Elsewhere around the world, caves hold similar weight in a wine region’s identity. From the tuffeau caves of the Loire Valley to volcanic chambers in Santorini, there’s a below-ground experience for every kind of cave connoisseur. Below, five memorable destinations wine lovers should know about for subterranean journeys ahead.
