Just like a flawless skin-care routine starts with the right face wash (or double cleanse), an excellent manicure starts with careful nail prep—especially if you like to go polish-free. One of the easiest ways to take care of your nails at home is by oiling them. “I think of it as barrier care,” says Jessica Wu, MD, a Harvard-trained dermatologist. “Your nails are constantly exposed to water, soap, sanitizer, polish, and any chemicals you may work with. Oil helps seal and soften the outer layer so the nail plate is less likely to peel, split, or catch.” Here’s everything you need to know to get started.
What are the benefits of nail oiling?
Nails are made of a protein called keratin (just like your hair), and “dry, rigid keratin is more likely to split,” Dr. Wu explains. Although oil won’t make your nails stronger overnight, “it can make the nail plate more flexible, less prone to splitting, and the cuticles less ragged.” Oil will also make your nail surface smoother, which is beneficial for applying even coats of polish. Another—maybe more unexpected—benefit is that regularly oiling your nails teaches you to pay closer attention to them. “Nails are tiny windows into the body,” Dr. Wu says, noting that differences in things like nail color, texture, growth, or shape could also indicate changes to your internal health.
What type of oil should you use?
“I would recommend simple, fragrance-free, nonirritating oils,” Dr. Wu says, adding to avoid essential oils, strong fragrances, and other irritating formulas, especially if you have eczema, sensitive skin, or inflamed cuticles.
One of her favorites is pure jojoba oil, which is technically a liquid wax ester (think of it like the sebum your skin produces). “It feels lighter and less greasy than many oils,” Dr. Wu notes. Below, she weighs in on some other popular options:
- Castor oil: “It’s thick and occlusive, so it’s especially helpful to seal and protect very dry nails and cracked cuticles.”
- Sweet almond oil: “It’s rich in fatty acids and has a softer, more cushiony feel.” However, she cautions that those with nut allergies or eczema-prone skin should do a patch test first.
- Avocado oil: “It’s richer and more nourishing, with omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins A, D, and E. In addition to nails, it’s also helpful for dry hands and cuticles, especially after gel removal.”
- Coconut oil: “It can soften dry nails and cuticles and reduce roughness, but it can also feel heavy, and not everyone loves the texture.”
How often should you apply the oil?
Dr. Wu recommends applying one drop of oil to each nail at night, then massaging it into your cuticles and under the edge of your nails. Any extra can be spread onto your fingertips too.
