Anna October still works between the Ukraine and France, but she recently moved to Paris, and paid homage to that city of flâneurs with a collection called Cafe Pleasure. “I’ve realized that honestly my vision is based on the things that I’m surrounded by every day,” she said. Seduced by the sinuous lines of the work of Hector Guimard, who famously designed the Paris Métro stations, she used leaf-shaped lace inserts to peek-a-boo effect and created a jacquard featuring poppies, a flower closely associated with the turn-of-the-century art movement Guimard was part of. Two sky-blue looks, one a bra-topped satin slip, the other a fringed frock and poncho, were signature October.
Known for her sensuous evening gowns, the designer continues to see-saw when it comes to building out her collection beyond dresses. Resort was heavy on separates; there were shirts, curvy suits, and overcomplicated pleated pants. More attention could have been paid to sheerness and fit. “I don’t think that the world needs another simple shirt,” she stated, “but I’m sure that the color and fabric selection and the execution and the little details justify the existence of the new ones [in this collection.]” Maybe. What worked best was a snakeskin bustier and pants, which was one of the closest extensions of the core proposition. An expanded offering makes sense given this season’s theme—cafes are for visiting at any time of day or night—but women come to this brand for pleasures that are extraordinary, not quotidian. October’s time is best spent on dreamy dresses.
