Frequently Asked Questions
Why has PDRN become so popular in Korean skin care specifically?
The rise of PDRN in Korean skin care is a natural extension of what K-beauty does best, which is “translating clinic-adjacent ingredients and procedures into consumer skin care,” says Dr. Yoo. And PDRN fits perfectly into Korea’s long-standing fascination with injectable skin boosters and post-procedure skin repair. As injectable PDRN treatments have gained popularity in dermatology clinics, topical PDRN serums, creams, and masks have followed, giving consumers a way to incorporate the ingredient into their daily routines.
Does PDRN skin care actually work?
Experts caution that the science behind topical PDRN remains largely theoretical. While injectable PDRN has been studied for wound healing and tissue repair, there are currently no robust human clinical trials demonstrating that PDRN delivers the same benefits when applied topically in skin-care products. Most of the research has been conducted in laboratory settings, with PDRN applied directly to cells in petri dishes. According to Romanowski, this means that just because an ingredient shows promise in cell cultures doesn’t mean it will perform the same way once it’s formulated into a serum or cream and applied to skin.
Another major question is whether PDRN molecules are even capable of penetrating the skin deeply enough to reach the receptors they’re purported to target. “There’s a principle in skin care that something can only penetrate your skin if it’s small enough—typically 500 daltons,” Romanowski explains. PDRN fragments are significantly larger than that threshold, raising questions about how much can actually reach the dermis, where these cellular interactions would need to occur. As Dr. Yoo notes, “the efficacy differs between PDRN in over-the-counter products and injectables,” meaning topical PDRN products shouldn’t be viewed as interchangeable with those in-office treatments (which again, are not FDA-approved stateside).
What is plant-derived PDRN?
Plant-derived PDRN—sometimes marketed as “phyto-PDRN” or “vegan PDRN”—“uses DNA fragments sourced from botanicals such as rice, green tea, ginseng, and rose, as well as through microbial biotechnology and fermentation,” says Backman. While the molecule comes from a different biological source and its DNA fragment profile may differ from traditional salmon-derived PDRN, she notes that “based on available research, plant PDRN appears to work through the same A2A receptor mechanism as salmon-derived PDRN.” In other words, it appears to activate the same pathways involved in skin repair, wound healing, inflammation regulation, and collagen production, meaning it may deliver many of the same skin-repairing and regenerative benefits despite coming from an entirely different source.
Is it worth using if you’re already using ingredients like retinol, peptides, or growth factors?
If you’re already using retinol, peptides, vitamin C, or other proven actives, think of PDRN as a complementary ingredient rather than a replacement. “Retinoids remain the gold standard and have stronger evidence for collagen remodeling and photoaging,” says Dr. Yoo. In fact, the dermatologists and cosmetic chemists we spoke with consistently pointed to ingredients like retinoids, peptides, vitamin C, and niacinamide as having far stronger evidence for improving skin over time. Retinoids, in particular, are backed by decades of research showing they can stimulate collagen production and improve the appearance of photoaging.
That’s also why you’ll often find those ingredients listed right alongside PDRN in product formulas. “That’s essentially how skin care works,” Romanowski previously told Allure. The ingredients that help “tell a story” are often paired with tried-and-true workhorses that actually deliver many of the visible benefits. While Dr. Yoo notes that PDRN may help support other actives through hydration, barrier repair, and recovery, experts say it’s difficult to know how much of a formula’s results can be attributed to PDRN itself. Bottom line? PDRN’s popularity is outpacing the available research, so while you can try it, your best bet for results is to seek out a formula that pairs PDRN with tried-and-true actives.
Meet the experts
- Sherry Backman, a cosmetic chemist based in Brattleboro, Vermont
- Charlotte Cho, aesthetician and co-founder of Soko Glam based in New York City
- Kelly Dobos, a Cincinnati-based cosmetic chemist
- Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Hamden, Connecticut
- Marisal Mou, a cosmetic chemist based in New York City
- Perry Romanowski, a Chicago-based cosmetic chemist
- Jane Yoo, MD, a dual board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon based in New York City
How we test and review products
When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle in an effort to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing each and every product that’s included in each and every review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.
For our list of the best PDRN serums, we considered each product’s performance across five primary categories: product ingredients and efficacy, packaging, fragrance, texture, and product wear. Every product was determined to have excelled in each category by our editorial team, which is composed of in-house writers and editors as well as contributors—along with special consideration from board-certified dermatologists. To learn more information on our reporting and testing processes, read our complete reviews process and methodology page.
Our staff and testers
A beauty product is a personal purchase. You might be searching for a face cream to address persistent dryness or a new nail product to add to your Sunday self-care routine; you may simply be browsing around for the latest launches to hit the hair market. No matter what you seek or your individual needs and concerns, Allure wants to ensure that you love anything we recommend in our stories. We believe that having a diverse team of writers and editors—in addition to the wide range of outside testers and industry experts we regularly call upon—is essential to reaching that goal.
After all, can we really say a skin-care product is the “best” for people over 50 if the only testers we’ve solicited opinions from folks who have yet to hit 30? Can we honestly deem a high-end diffuser worthy of your hard-earned cash if it’s never been tested on curls? We’re proud that our staff spans a wide range of ages, skin tones, hair textures, genders, and backgrounds, which means that we are able to fairly assess any beauty product that comes into the beauty closet.
