The sheer volume of serums in the anti-aging category can make shopping feel overwhelming, but you can narrow down your search to formulas that include these types of active ingredients—they’ll provide the most benefit to aging skin.
Antioxidants: “You’ll also want a strong dose of antioxidants to protect against environmental stress and keep your complexion glowing,” explains Dr. Reszko. These ingredients help combat the damaging effects of free radicals while supporting skin-barrier function. Some antioxidants to look for include vitamin C, vitamin E, glutathione, and niacinamide.
Retinoids: Often referred to as the gold standard in anti-aging by dermatologists, retinoids like prescription-strength tretinoin, OTC retinal (a.k.a. retinaldehyde), and retinol are derivatives of vitamin A that work by stimulating collagen production, which helps improve texture and reduce wrinkles, according to Dr. Yadav.
Exfoliating Acids: Ingredients like alpha-hydroxy acids and polyhydroxy acids help slough away dead cells on the skin’s surface that make skin look dull and uneven, promoting a fresher, more radiant complexion. “For anyone dealing with redness or uneven tone, azelaic acid is a multitasking hero that calms irritation while brightening,” adds Dr. Reszko. The other acid, beta-hydroxy acid—otherwise known as salicylic acid—is excellent as well, though its better suited to prevent and diminish blemishes.
Growth Factors: Your body naturally produces growth factors, a type of protein, to stimulate collagen production and promote wound healing for healthier-looking skin. Growth factor serums may contain human-derived or synthetic growth factors, or lab-made peptides that have been engineered to function like growth factors to help firm and smooth skin.
Peptides: Peptides are short chains of amino acids (the building blocks of protein, as you may recall from middle-school science classes) that can have multiple functions. There are peptides that can help hydrate skin, promote collagen synthesis to firm and lift, or brighten uneven tone. Some peptide serums even act similarly to injectable neurotoxins, though they’re not as powerful as an in-office treatment.
