Have you heard? People are drinking less. Or at least, that’s what all the surveys and headlines are hinting at. Whether data offers a clear snapshot of America’s current alcohol intake is debatable, but one thing does seem certain: low-ABV drinks are outshining their boozier counterparts.
When you think about timeless low-ABV cocktails—campari spritz, sherry cobbler, vermouth highball—all of them slot in well with daily rituals like cooking or a sobremesa. They offer complex flavor combinations that are enjoyable both alone or paired with food, and most obviously, the lower alcohol content is ideal. Full-proof classics still shine, but the current landscape of low ABV is abundant in choice right now.
A few anthropological observations that illustrate this include the mini cocktail craze (long live the teeny ’tini), the proliferation of aperitif culture, entire beverage menus devoted to low ABV, and the renaissance of fortified wines and herbal liqueurs—just to name a few.
Vermouth at Bar Oliver in New York City.Photo: Montana Cooper
Of course, this isn’t a new concept—low ABV has been steadily growing in the U.S. for more than a decade. “It’s no longer just a trend, it’s become a lasting shift in the way people enjoy drinking,” Milos Zica says, who is partner and beverage director at Cafe Susanne and Bar Susanne. He suggests that rather than switching entirely to low-alcohol drinks, we’re all just looking for balance. “Guests still appreciate a beautifully-made martini or old fashioned, but they also want drinks that allow them to stay social, enjoy multiple rounds, and feel good throughout the evening.”
This summer, Bar Susanne created a dedicated spritz menu anchored by fortified wines, aperitifs, fresh citrus, herbs, and sparkling wine; an evolution beyond the classic Aperol or Hugo Spritz. At Stars in the East Village, the team serves low-ABV cocktails year-round, but finds they really hit the spot in summer. “’Tis the season for easy-going sipping,” says owner Chase Sinzer, who shares that white wine spritzes, vermouth sodas, and Spaghetts (theirs is topped with Cappelletti) are all in high demand.
Some are taking cues from established low-ABV cocktails and reimagining them with seasonal ingredients. At The Musket Room, Jeanne Torres and her team turn waste from the kitchen into house-fermented sodas to use in low-ABV drinks. “At the moment we’re using strawberry trim from pastry to infuse Pimm’s for a refreshing session spritz,” she says. “With the addition of a little pineapple amaro we create a riff on a traditional Pimm’s cup.”
