Every weekend this summer, you could find New York pastry chef Michelle Kogan setting up shop at one of two outdoor markets: the Carroll Gardens market in Brooklyn, or the Sunnyside market in Queens. Inside her pop-up tents, Kogan—a Michelin Star chef—has been selling her handmade Mishie’s Sunnyside pies, and her presence at the local markets serves as a stark contrast to her impressive resumé, considering she has cut her teeth at institutions like Nobu, Morimoto, and Torrisi.
But this summer, without a buzzy restaurant scene or a team of sous-chefs to hide behind, Kogan decided to step out on her own: The past few months have revolved around just her, some delicious pies, and a singular vision to bring joy to her local communities. “I just started [selling the pies] renegade-style,” says Kogan. “At first, I felt a little embarrassed—doing it with my little shanty table.”
“Anything that creates something heartwarming and joyful is what I’m here to do,” says Kogan of her pies.
Photo: Oliver Halfin
It didn’t take long for Kogan’s pies to generate buzz. Specializing in unique ingredients—the key lime and ube coconut cream pies being some of her signatures—Kogan’s pies have brought an elevated touch to the regular farmer’s market mix (not to mention a luxurious price tag, given they run anywhere from $35 to $45 a pop). And they instantly attracted a crowd. “One of my pies ended up in front of one of the most influential food influencers, Mike Chau,” says Kogan. “Once he posted me, [my business] spiked tenfold. Now, I’m inundated—I’m doing 800 pies a week.”
So, how exactly did Kogan become New York’s hottest pie-maker? And why did she leave some of the city’s most prestigious institutions to follow her sweet and savory dreams?
Like many chefs, Kogan’s love of making pastries and desserts stems all the way back to her childhood. Kogan was born and raised in Brooklyn then Queens among a family of Russian and Ukrainian immigrants. Some of her fondest childhood memories revolve around what was being served at the kitchen table. “My grandma on my dad’s side would make the most amazing cakes for my birthday,” recalls Kogan. “Watching her make these beautiful masterpieces inspired me: She taught me how to make something from nothing—turning eggs, butter, and flour into something delicious.”
Years later, Kogan went on to study at the French Culinary Institute in 2005, and soon after began her career with a brief stint at the now-defunct Del Posto, and as a sous-chef at Nobu. She then evolved to become a pastry chef, working at institutions such as TAO Downtown, Morimoto, and Torrisi (where she and the team earned a Michelin Star in 2012). “I learned a lot, because of the volumes we were doing,” says Kogan of her time at the top of New York’s kitchens. “I looked at it as a time to hone my skills, and learn from all of these different amazing chefs that I was working for. But the end goal was always to create something of my own.”
