In the six years that they’ve been in business, Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell have managed to build their own little whimsical world. Trend followers they are not: Instead of trying to appease everybody and anybody, the duo have doubled down on their signature kitsch and vintage-inspired aesthetic, and it’s a mood that permeates their casual wear, formal wear, and even informs their approach to how they show during New York Fashion Week. Instead of a splashy runway show this season, the duo presented their new collection in a much more intimate way, bringing guests into their New York studio-slash-salon to see the new pieces up close and personal.
Their spring assortment proved to be one of their largest to date, including a whopping 62 looks. Much of it served as their latest extended take on “cabinwear,” which is what the duo calls their more casual ready-to-wear pieces. “People are starting to know us for doing these little New England road trips, so this is the New England version of cabinwear,” said Richie. Their frequent trips to the coastal parts of the region ended up inspiring many of their day-to-day pieces. “It was a little more nautical this time,” said Richie. “It’s also the most color I think we’ve ever done.”
Richie and Kasell do quirky-yet-wearable well, and there were plenty of new categories to take in. Their simple T-shirts had an asymmetrical sailor-style wrap tie around the neck—a small but clever detail to make the everyday tee feel fresh. Their chore jackets came in a floral gardenia print with a pop-of-red collar, and their sprightly hand-sewn knits were adorned with prints of sail boats or strawberries. “We tried to bring back embroideries that feel like they’re on a found vintage piece,” said Richie. Every piece felt wholeheartedly on-brand. This season, they also ramped up their assortment of swimwear: One-pieces for her came in retro polkadots, while the sexier belted briefs came in plaids or dots for him. (Turns out, their version of a Speedo remains a best-seller. “We have a pretty gay client,” said Richie.)
Their more formal offerings, meanwhile, were dazzling for anyone who longs for another era. The Tanner Fletcher boys have a penchant for designing pieces that feel like they belong in an entirely different decade—without feeling costumey or cheap. An elegant black lace dress, with a white silk bow at the neckline, served as a reproduction of a 1930s gown they found while antiquing. A classic black column gown featured a built-in train with polka-dot lining. “It’s a silhouette from our last wedding collection, but we wanted it to be less bridal and more evening,” said Kasell. (Even so, wear it to a wedding and you’ll upstage the bride.)
For men, the evening suits were polka-dotted in black and white or sky-blue, or in a solid satiny-pink with ribbons all over. (One such ribbon read: “Sissy.”) In a space like fashion that encourages self-expression, menswear can still often be, well, too masculine—so it’s always delightful to see how the duo reinterpret evening dressing for their male clientele. This season, that showed up as strapless silk-charmeuse tops, with a long panel of fabric that can be slung over the shoulder or tied as a bow at the front. It felt like a more chic and unexpected alternative to a tuxedo, though much more daring. The duo are done playing it safe though—it’s either casual-cozy or full-on glamour. “We’re not really looking for that middle ground,” said Kasell.
