Last night, New York Fashion Week (NYFW) came to a close with Thom Browne’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, which he presented at the cavernous Hudson Yards venue The Shed, this time with a grassy garden set and metamorphosis theme. Browne, who is the chair of the board of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), typically shows just once per year in New York (though usually not in September), and the theatrics always deliver the right caliber of drama and artistry to end the week.
NYFW often gets chided for its predictability. Not so this season. An incident at Sunday’s Cos show — which involved CFDA CEO Steven Kolb physically interfering with Peta protestors — became the story of the week, as the video of the altercation circulated social media. By Monday afternoon, Kolb posted an apology to his Instagram Stories while the CFDA board released a statement saying that he will be on leave pending further review. Considering the future of one of NYFW’s leaders is up in the air, there was somewhat of a vibe shift as fashion week soldiered on in the midst of the media coverage that followed.
But attention on the ground, for the most part, stayed on the clothes. Designers delivered: two of New York Fashion Week’s newest entrants put on two shows each: Rachel Scott and Henry Zankov (for Proenza Schouler and Diotima and Diane von Furstenberg and Zankov, respectively); newcomers to the schedule, like Magda Butrym, Aisling Camps, Jamie Haller, and Giovanna Flores, the latter of whom took appointments from her Brooklyn living room, stood out; and New York’s establishment celebrated milestones (like Carolina Herrera’s 45 years and Coach’s 85) and presented clear and confident collections (see Veronica Leoni’s fourth for Calvin Klein Collection, and Joseph Altuzarra’s return to form).
Off-calendar, newcomer Catalogue generated lots of chatter, as did Marcus Allen’s Society Archive Collection debut. Ralph Lauren showed a collection that spoke to the spectrum of his influence on American design, from preppy suits to lavish evening gowns. “There’s a bit of irreverence that Ralph wanted to inject in the collection,” CEO Patrice Louvet said after the show. Louvet says the company’s highest priority categories are womenswear, outerwear and handbags, and this season was entirely womenswear.
“Ralph Lauren felt so distinctly Ralph, but completely right for now,” says Moda Operandi president April Henning. “The shrunken jackets, the flower brooches and the beaded wrap top put an elevated spin on of-the-moment silhouettes.”
Diotima SS27.
Photo: Acielle / StyleDuMonde
Proenza Schouler SS27.
Photo: Acielle / StyleDuMonde
