Twenty-five years. That’s how long it’s been since McQueen was on the official London Fashion Week schedule, opting instead for the seemingly more prominent streets of Paris. However, on Sept. 20, Creative Director Seán McGirr staged a homecoming of epic proportions — one that paid homage to the city from which the brand and its late namesake founder originated. An exclusive crowd — which included Lola Tung, Alexa Chung, Lila Moss, and Emilia Clarke — filed into the majestic Lincoln’s Inn Chapel to view the milestone presentation.
“This collection is a celebration of London’s ceaselessly stimulating and transcendent power,” said McGirr in the official show notes. “McQueen is a London-born house, and the city’s uncompromising attitude and subversive spirit sit at its very heart.”
For the big return to “its roots”, McGirr told The Impression that he was heavily influenced by The Baptism of Christ by Piero della Francesca, housed at The National Gallery. (For those unfamiliar, the famed artwork, known for its three-dimensional illusion and strategic use of perspective and mathematical composition, depicts John The Baptist pouring water over Christ while three angels in colorful robes stand by as witnesses.)
Indeed, both shape play, an angelic theme, and a hefty dash of darkness were present for Spring/Summer 2027, melding nicely with Lee McQueen’s signature tension between romantic and aggressive tones. This messaging was delivered early on, with a pouty Karen Elson sauntering down the stone walkway in a soft pink satin dress accented with a shackle-like metal choker and belt. Similar ethereal frocks were juxtaposed with horn-shaped hairstyles reminiscent of a mischief-seeking demon as well as thick ankle straps that resembled restraints. A glistening floor-length chainmail gown that comprised interlocked skulls further played into the balance of darkness and light.
Courtesy of McQueen
Suiting, created in partnership with longtime collaborator and famed Seville Row tailor Huntsman, was designed to shift “between formality and counterculture.” The sculptural, intentional silhouettes featured “‘angel wing’ tailoring at contrast with tall, strict suiting,” explained the official show notes. Unexpected pops of color were paired with said strict suiting, with ruffled layered mini skirts in bright blues and rich reds peeking out from cinched-waist blazers.
Ahead, see highlights from McQueen’s homecoming collection.
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