Leandro Cano is frustrated by how often Andalusia is underestimated. That frustration became the starting point for “Le Chien Andalou,” his latest collection. “I did a lot of research into where our culture comes from and went all the way back to proto-Andalusian roots,” he said. “The cultures that passed through Andalusia still shape its music and identity, from Semana Santa [the Spanish version of Easter week] to the Feria. Everything here feels ceremonial.” Religion and flamenco traditions became two of the collection’s foundations, filtered through the same surrealist lens as Luis Buñuel’s famous film, which gave the collection its name. “This time I’m working from three ideas: hyperbole, beauty, and surrealism, which I accept as something completely natural,” said Cano.
His signature sculptural approach also shifted this season. The volumes were lighter than in the past, thanks to techniques the studio has been developing for years. The shapes changed, too. “We played with triangles and cones,” he explained. “Some volumes started below the waist, others at the shoulder, but the silhouette was always conical.” Satin, wool, and wool crepe formed the base of these architectural pieces, in shades ranging from midnight blue mixed with black to lighter sky tones, finished with vibrant red.
Craft has been at the heart of the brand from the beginning, and each season brings together different techniques and specialist makers from across Spain. For crochet, Cano once again worked with Seville’s Hilando el Tiempo. The ceramic pieces were made by Fran Agudo in Castilla-La Mancha; Sandra Vila, based in Santiago de Compostela, created the felt details. The same mentality extended to the accessories, which reinforced the collection’s central ideas. “We designed jewelry pieces that sit in the mouth, almost like fangs, as a nod to the dog,” said Cano of the silver pieces produced by Gorobei. Traditional Córdoban hats also appeared throughout, made by the historic Seville house Fernández y Roche. “They were perfect for giving the collection a more international edge and making the idea easier to understand abroad,” said Cano.
