The Gucci collection cycled through a few different styles, from twisted prep to spiky-shouldered tailoring, but post-show chatter signaled that people are better understanding where his Gucci will go. And while it’s not out of the woods yet, it’s worth noting that Gucci is recovering slowly under Demna. Sales fell 2% to €1.41 billion for Q2 2026, above consensus expectations of a 4.7% drop, marking a significant improvement for the house, which was down 8% last quarter. Kering chairman Francois-Henri Pinault and CEO Luca de Meo attended both the Gucci and Bottega Veneta shows.
“Demna’s Gucci feels like a defining moment, with a clear focus on making the house feel more relatable, commercial and relevant to a broad luxury customer, while giving menswear a particularly strong presence,” Hsu says. Milan may have its own men’s week in January and June, but menswear is increasingly prominent during the womenswear shows. Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, Ferragamo, Diesel, Tod’s and more now show co-ed.
At Fendi’s mirror show, which distorted the view and projected guests onto the runway, Bobb felt Maria Grazia took “a bigger swing” this season. “She went to her more playful, provocative side, which gave the collection a fantastic energy overall.”
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s sophomore show saw models walk inside a mirrored box, so the audience could see both themselves and the looks.
Photo: GoRunway.com
The consensus is that Louise Trotter is settling in well at Bottega Veneta, moving beyond heavy fabrications to breezier, easier fashion, still with an intense commitment to craft and looser lines. Jackets were constructed without padding, while fringe was manipulated into skirts to let air in as the wearer walked. Brand ambassador Jacob Elordi sat front row, while his girlfriend Kendall Jenner made her first runway appearance of the season so far by closing the show. Other guests included Tyler, the Creator, Solange, Lauren Hutton and Audrey Hobert, who had press clambering to interview them post-show.
At his third show for Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti continued to develop his version of minimalism, with interesting twists on wardrobe staples like the blazer or the skirt. “He is a masterful designer who can cut the slickest suit in the freakiest way,” says Nordstrom’s Bobb. “I loved the off-kilter silhouettes, the surprising digital prints and bubble silhouettes, the inside-out, colorblocked bags and pumps with the bendable leather panels at the front.” She wasn’t alone. The benches were packed, and editors struggled to film almost every look as it passed by. (Although, at the re-see, one editor who loved the collection lamented the very high price point). Following the appointment of CEO Marco Viganò, hopefully the OTB brand, which is relatively small, can see commercial success to match the Bellotti buzz.
