Blurred lines. That’s how I might sum up Jonathan Anderson’s creative vision in the (very) simplest of terms. Indeed, the Northern Ireland native has become known for embracing the tension between different elements: Surrealism, sculpture, nature, craft. Emerging during his 11-year tenure at Loewe, this exploration is fully materializing at Dior. His collections over the past year have captivated and stunned the fashion set, thanks to his expert skill of reshaping the brand’s traditional design codes and silhouettes. This talent was showcased yet again for Spring/Summer 2027.
Anderson debuted his nature-inspired collection at the Le Bassin Octogonal in the Jardin des Tuileries, Paris, amidst a cluster of specially installed camphor trees (which “will be replanted in the Tuileries so they can continue to flourish in the years to come,” according to a post on Dior’s Instagram account). Ahead of the show, the designer teased his vision, stating the traditional Chinese practice of hand-rolling wénwán walnuts was an heavy influence on the label’s spring offering.
“Typically, a pair is held in one hand and each walnut rotated around the other until — over time — their surface acquires a smooth sheen,” reads the caption for the Sept. 29 post. “Pairs that are similar in shape and size are difficult to find and especially prized. Perfect symmetry is elusive.”
This unique asymmetry was explored in the airy, mix-and-match looks that walked the mist-lined runway. Models emerged in sheer, ultra-feminine takes on spring suiting: feather-light mesh blazers were layered over similarly transparent takes on the classic Oxford blouse, paired with asymmetrical silk mini-skirts that resembled flowers near bloom. Florals were definitely a running theme for the collection (Miranda Priestly be damned), from the textured blazers covered in petal-inspired embellishments and printed midi-skirts that resembled a fine watercolored masterpiece you might find in a Parisian museum.
Speaking of skirts, the once neglected bottom which was the recent star of Prada’s latest runway show, also seemed to be at top of mind for Anderson. The piece was celebrated in a variety of forms: gauzy minis, asymmetrical ankle-grazing silhouettes, fluted, pleated, accented with tulle trim. It’s official: 2027 will be the year of the statement skirt.
WWD/Getty Images
And while soft neutrals and quiet pastels made up the collection, a clear color champion reigned: baby pink. Also rampant on the London Fashion Week runways in more vibrant renditions, Anderson’s approach to the shade, skews more ballet slipper than bubblegum, splashed on the aforementioned petal-covered blazers, high-low ruffled skirts, pleated chiffon dresses, and statement handbags (a standout was the fringe-covered tote that will certainly be an it girl fave in the coming months).
See the highlights from Anderson’s dreamy vision for spring.
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