Frequently Asked Questions
What are peptides?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids, “like glycine, arginine, histidine, et cetera,” says Dr. Kim. “They’re designed to boost and replenish amino acids, which are the building blocks for collagen production.” You might recognize amino acids as the building blocks of protein, but peptides tend to be shorter chains than proteins. And compared to topical collagen, peptides have a small particle size that allows them to penetrate the surface level of your skin at a deeper level. In turn, they’re great at reducing the appearance of fine lines, soothing dehydrated skin, and leaving skin firmer, Dr. Kim says.
How do peptides benefit the skin?
The abundance and quality of our body’s natural collagen production decrease over time, as Dr. Hartman previously explained. As a result, wrinkles start to form and skin begins to sag, but peptide chains mimic the structure of amino acids to diminish the look of these concerns over time. People with mature skin, in particular, can benefit from peptides for their ability to improve skin firmness along the jawline, smooth expression lines, and even out skin tone.
That said, not all peptides are created equal. The most common types of peptides consist of signal peptides, carrier peptides, enzyme-inhibitor peptides, and neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptides, which all have specific functions. (Also, keep in mind that labs and brands can and often do trademark their own peptide complexes.)
- Signal peptides: These peptides signal your skin cells to go into repair mode, helping to stimulate collagen and elastin production.
- Carrier peptides: Carrier peptides carry other ingredients to skin—copper peptides being the best-known of these. They deliver copper to the skin, which activates wound healing and collagen production.
- Enzyme-inhibitor peptides: These peptides block the naturally occurring enzymes in your body that can break down collagen.
- Neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptides: Think of these as the topical (though far less powerful) cousin of Botox—they smooth expression lines by temporarily relaxing the look of muscle movement.
While you’ll often find “peptides” placed front and center on the actual product packaging, ingredient lists often categorize peptides by how many amino acids a peptide contains, such as dipeptide (two), tripeptide (three), and hexapeptide (six). It’s also not uncommon to see multiple peptides strung together to maximize their collagen-boosting benefits.
Peptides seldom cause skin sensitivity or irritation, but you should still be discerning of your serum’s formulation. “If someone has a [negative] reaction, it’s most likely from the preservatives, other chemicals, or essential oils in the formula, not the peptides,” Dr. Kim says. So, it’s always best practice to do a patch test before applying.
Meet the experts
- Mina Amin, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Los Angeles
- Corey L. Hartman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology based in Birmingham, Alabama
- Saami Khalifian, MD, a double board-certified dermatologist at SOM Aesthetics based in Encinitas, California
- Blair Murphy Rose, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City
- Dara Spearman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Radiant Dermatology Associates based in Fort Wayne, Indiana
- May Hall, DO, a double board-certified dermatologist based in Asheville, North Carolina
- David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City
How we test and review products
When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing every product included in each review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.
For our list of the best peptide serums, we considered each product’s performance across five primary categories: product ingredients and efficacy, packaging, fragrance, texture, and product wear. Our editorial team, which is composed of in-house writers, editors, and contributors, determined that every product excelled in each category—along with special consideration from board-certified dermatologists. To learn more information on our reporting and testing processes, read our complete reviews process and methodology page.
Our staff and testers
A beauty product is a personal purchase. You might be searching for a face cream to address persistent dryness or a new nail product to add to your Sunday self-care routine; you may simply be browsing around for the latest launches to hit the hair market. No matter what you seek or your individual needs and concerns, Allure wants to ensure that you love anything we recommend in our stories. We believe that having a diverse team of writers and editors—in addition to the wide range of outside testers and industry experts we regularly call upon—is essential to reaching that goal.
After all, can we really say a skin-care product is the “best” for people over 50 if the only testers we’ve solicited opinions from folks who have yet to hit 30? Can we honestly deem a high-end diffuser worthy of your hard-earned cash if it’s never been tested on curls? We’re proud that our staff spans a wide range of ages, skin tones, hair textures, genders, and backgrounds, which means that we are able to fairly assess any beauty product that comes into the beauty closet.
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