Nose-deep in a nylon Prada shoulder bag is a strange way to start a Saturday morning in SoHo. But after taking a subtle whiff inside the purse—and hoping no one in the downtown Manhattan store was taking note—I sniff my wrist. Earlier, I had spritzed on Prada Beauty’s latest scent, Nylon Noir. Sharp when it hits the nose, it reminds me of the sound that nylon makes when it rubs against itself.
We all know what tulle, satin, and wool look like—but how do they smell? That’s what the latest fragrances are exploring. These aren’t leather scents (new cars, edgy jackets, saddles), which have been done since 1781, when The House of Creed first made Royal English Leather for King George III. Instead, think of opening the doors to a fashion house’s workshop and experiencing the materials. “Indigo is inspired by denim,” Andrea Maack says of the newest perfume from her namesake company, which deploys notes of lavender, orris, and musk. It smells like how it feels to pull on my favorite pair of almost-too-tight vintage Gloria Vanderbilt jeans.
I find, as I test these new fragrances, that I gravitate toward those that match my outfit. A nipped-in 1950s fit and flare dress requires a Dior scent influenced by the sharp angles of the New Look, while a wiggle sheath and feathered mules worn to an American Ballet Theatre matinee prompt me to reach for YSL Beauty’s Velours, inspired by the lush velvet beloved by Yves Saint Laurent. And the limited edition porcelain bottle of Dries Van Noten’s Soie Malaquais—or “Malaquais Silk”—is slinky and sexy enough for a night out in a slip dress. When I return home, even my bath-and-bed routine is fabric-inspired; Guerlain’s Eau de Coton is a soft blend of almond and orange blossom that’s equally cozy on my pajamas and my sheets. Party on, and party down.
