A bespoke Savile Row suit is an investment purchase—semi-bespoke suits start at £3,000 (around $4,000) and fully bespoke at £5,000 (roughly $6,600) and are entirely handmade. My goal: a single garment to get me through formal occasions during the festive season, rather than multiple evening dresses which take up precious New York City closet real estate. Looking ahead to the fall (start to finish, it is roughly a six-month process, with three fittings), I decided on a tuxedo. While the sheer number of options can be overwhelming, it was an easy decision, but one that begged questions of lapel widths, buttonholes, fabrics, and trouser length. I decided to spare myself the stress and defer to Andrew (highly recommended).
We landed on a double-breasted number with a hidden placket, which felt a bit more modern, in black wool barathea—the most traditional of tuxedo fabrics—with a silk-satin peak lapel and jetted pockets. At this stage, our first fitting, there was of course no garment to speak of, other than those on a mood board I’d put together. Countless measurements were taken, and it was decided that the coordinating trousers-to-be would be a slightly wide, straight-leg style with satin tape running the length of the outside hem. With no need for belt loops, Andrew added tonal side adjusters.
A few months later, Andrew was back in New York, and the tuxedo was taking shape. With the intricate stitch patterns and horsehair “canvas” visible, it was impossible not to marvel at the work and training required for the construction of such a garment. Apprenticeship lengths range from two to six years, with the lower end being for those specializing only in the making of trousers. Andrew blazed her own trail, navigating a scene that was then very much dominated by the old boys’ network. She earned her degree at the London College of Fashion and interned at Burberry, Edward Sexton, and Henry Poole.
