Building direct consumer relationships
Changes in product design are unfolding alongside a reconsideration of how independent labels sell their collections. During SHFW, a number of brands opened physical stores or explored new retail formats, signaling a greater willingness to invest in direct relationships with consumers.
Many Chinese designer labels have historically relied on a combination of fashion week presentations, showrooms and multi-brand retailers to build their businesses. The model allows brands to reach customers across cities and markets without bearing the full cost of operating their own stores. Retail partners also provide access to established customer bases and take on part of the inventory risk.
But wholesale distribution can limit brands’ access to information about the people buying their clothes. As brands become more established, some are looking to close that gap. From premium shopping malls to local neighborhoods, standalone stores and pop-ups are becoming a more deliberate part of distribution strategies.
After years of building its business through wholesale, Samuel Guì Yang is entering standalone retail. Founder Yang sees the brand’s first global store as a natural next step in its 10-year journey. Located on Julu Road, opposite the Shanghai Writers’ Association, the store came together in less than two months and opened on day three of fashion week. The neighborhood’s local character made it a fitting setting for its first store, according to the designer.
Other brands are taking different routes into physical retail. Markgong has moved from online into bricks-and-mortar selling, having opened its first flagship in IAMP Mall in August, while Nana Jacqueline is expanding through new shopping malls and new cities. Ruohan, which has built its business through wholesale partners including Lane Crawford and presentations at Paris Fashion Week, is preparing to open its first standalone store on Hunan Road in Shanghai in the coming weeks.
