Step two is a retinol treatment that “is working more gradually on cell turnover, texture and fine lines,” she says. It also contains ectoin and allantoin to soothe and support skin, which is especially important when you’re using multiple active ingredients. Because both steps contain potent active ingredients, start slowly rather than using them every night, especially if your skin is dry or sensitive.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are chemical exfoliators?
Chemical exfoliators are active ingredients that help loosen the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to shed and reveal newer and healthier cells beneath, according to Tiffany J. Libby, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Rhode Island. “They also help unclog pores and exfoliate away surface skin cells; they also brighten skin, improve skin cell turnover and renewal, and some may even help stimulate collagen production within the skin,” she explains. Resurfaced skin can also allow subsequent skin-care products to absorb more effectively.
Choosing a formula that contains the best exfoliant ingredients for your skin type is also critical. Michelle Henry, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City, suggests initially avoiding mechanical exfoliation if you have sensitive skin and instead choosing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid. “They exfoliate the upper layers of the skin while also hydrating and helping your skin retain moisture,” she says. Dr. Libby echoes this advice: “If you have sensitive skin, start with polyhydroxy acids, or lactic acid and mandelic acid, which are larger alpha hydroxy acid molecules [that] do not penetrate as deeply into the skin and are least likely to cause irritation.” For people with more resilient skin who require an intensive acne-fighting treatment, we recommend using salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid with a small molecular weight, allowing it to penetrate pores more effectively than other exfoliating actives.
What are physical exfoliators?
Physical exfoliators have granules that manually buff away dead skin cells from the surface of your skin. Dr. Henry says physical exfoliation is key for oily skin, since it helps remove layers of oil buildup. “When you have oily skin, your dead skin cells are more adherent and don’t flake off as quickly, which can contribute to breakouts,” she explains. She recommends using an exfoliating face scrub with salicylic acid, which “gently speeds up skin turnover and better penetrates oil and oily follicles” to keep skin clean and clear of blemishes. Dr. Libby agrees, adding that salicylic acid “is excellent at targeting oil and unclogging pores.”
Can you over-exfoliate?
Yes, definitely. Despite the benefits of using an exfoliator, overdoing it can cause redness, irritation, breakouts, and damage to your skin barrier. Additionally, using an exfoliator that’s either too harsh or too gentle for your skin type can rob you of that luminous finish you’re seeking. To strike the right balance, make sure you’re not exfoliating too often—no more than three times a week (one or two times should be enough for dry or sensitive skin). Or, look into the dermatologist-approved skin-cycling trend, a regimen that alternates between using active ingredients and letting the skin rest.
Dr. Henry recommends exfoliating with a physical exfoliator for about 30 seconds (or less) using small, gentle, circular motions. She adds that it’s important to follow the instructions printed on the packaging for chemical exfoliators, as they can vary by product.
Meet the experts
- Brendan Camp, MD, is a double board-certified dermatologist in dermatology and dermatopathology at MDCS Dermatology in the tri-state area.
- Claire Chang, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City
- Michelle Henry, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin & Aesthetic Surgery of Manhattan based in New York City
- Cheryl Karcher, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Center Aesthetic & Dermatology based in New York City.
- Tiffany J. Libby, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Brown Dermatology based in Rhode Island.
- Dawn Queen, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Park Ave Derm based in New York City.
- Farhaad Riyaz, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Plymouth, Michigan.
- Mamina Turegano, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist, internist, and dermatopathologist based in New Orleans.
- Carlos Vieira, is a board-certified dermatologist at The Dermatology Specialists based in Philadelphia.
How we test and review products
When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle in an effort to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing each and every product that’s included in each and every review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.
For our list of the best face exfoliators, we considered each product’s performance across five primary categories: product ingredients and efficacy, packaging, fragrance, texture, and product wear. Every product was determined to have excelled in each category by our editorial team, which is composed of in-house writers and editors as well as contributors—along with special consideration from board-certified dermatologists and cosmetic chemists. To learn more information on our reporting and testing processes, read our complete reviews process and methodology page.
Our staff and testers
A beauty product is a personal purchase. You might be searching for a face cream to address persistent dryness or a new nail product to add to your Sunday self-care routine; you may simply be browsing around for the latest launches to hit the hair market. No matter what you seek or your individual needs and concerns, Allure wants to ensure that you love anything we recommend in our stories. We believe that having a diverse team of writers and editors—in addition to the wide range of outside testers and industry experts we regularly call upon—is essential to reaching that goal.
After all, can we really say a skin-care product is the “best” for people over 50 if the only testers we’ve solicited opinions from folks who have yet to hit 30? Can we honestly deem a high-end diffuser worthy of your hard-earned cash if it’s never been tested on curls? We’re proud that our staff spans a wide range of ages, skin tones, hair textures, genders, and backgrounds, which means that we are able to fairly assess any beauty product that comes into the beauty closet.
