With the rise of lab-grown diamonds, more and more couples can opt to design a custom engagement ring that’s both jaw-dropping and surprisingly affordable. The old adage might have preached that a ring should cost three month’s salary (an act of clever advertising from the diamond industry) but these days, there’s something for every taste and budget — and these sparklers doesn’t scrimp on impact, either.
A recent report showed that 52% of couples opted for a lab-grown stone; a figure that continues to grow rapidly. But senior gemologist Laura Martin, estimates that she’s seen between 70 to 85% of shoppers skewing towards lab-grown over natural in recent years. Intrigued by the shift, Martin recently joined Friendly Diamonds, a company that specializes in customizable lab-grown diamond engagement rings.
“The pricing difference has just become so [vast.] They each have their own place, but when you show someone a half carat diamond that is old-mined and a two carat one that is lab-grown…it’s not that bigger is always better, but the appeal is clear,” Martin tells TZR. “And of course, there’s a lot to be said for knowing the sustainability of the practice too.”
Friendly Diamonds, which is headquartered in New York City, has already helped over 5,000 couples create the type of rings they grew up dreaming about since launching their personalization program in 2020. Shoppers can start by selecting their desired diamond shape or setting, tweaking everything from carat size to whether they want a gold, white gold, rose gold, or platinum band.
Friendly Diamonds
Ahead, Martin adresses the frequently asked questions and misconceptions surrounding lab-grown engagement ring.
Does lab-grown look different to natural?
To the naked eye, Martin confirms that it’s near impossible to spot the difference. “I have looked at a ton of diamonds in my day. If you’re looking at something that’s in the one to one-and-a-half carat range, most of the time, I can’t even tell, especially because they have gotten better and better at making them,” she says.
What’s the most common carat size?
Martin says that while some people are comfortable walking around with a six-carat ring, a large sparkler isn’t always a priority. “I have seen [size] come down a little bit, and most orders we see are around one to three carats for ready-made rings,” she says. “But when people go the customization route, they tend to have some more budget, so they are likely to go for something a little bit larger.”
“On our site, we have a variety of really classic styles — but we can customize anything, so a couple might say, ‘I want this in a four carat instead of the two carat that it’s shown as.’”
How much can I expect to spend?
While budget varies widely, Martin says many of her clients stick within the $2,000 to $4,000 range for an original piece — although she has had plenty of couples spend between $5,000 to $8,000 too. “I think it’s a lot more affordable than people think it’s going to be overall,” she reflects.
What’s the most popular diamond shape right now?
Martin says that the square, princess cut diamonds of yore have given way to round stones, which she sees the most interest in. “We’re seeing a lot of the ‘fancy’ cuts too, so a ton of ovals and also an influx of pear shapes too,” she adds.
Emeralds are increasing in popularity as well. “I think the emerald client is a little bit more particular, just because they sparkle so much and are quite different, but it’s a really elegant cut,” Martin says of the appeal.
Are thin bands still a thing?
“People still love the classic settings,” Martin says. “They like thin bands, either plain or diamond-studded with a solitaire [one center stone] that pops. Otherwise, they might do something like a pavé-set band with three stones, or side stones like trapezoids or a baguette around the larger diamond.” Martin believes that bezel settings and chunkier cigar bands will soon make a comeback too.
Friendly Diamonds
What’s the design process like for lab-grown rings?
After a virtual consultation with Martin or another gemologist at Friendly Diamonds, a client can expect to receive a CAD design in 24 to 48 hours to help them envision the special creation. The imagined ring can be then modified before being sent to production, to ensure everyone is on the same page. Mostly, everyone is agreement within one to three designs, she says. “We try and be as approachable as possible. The key is in the name: it’s friendly! So if there’s ever a time where I need to explain to a client that something is a bad idea, I’ll do that. We don’t want them to have something that won’t last a lifetime,” she adds.
How involved can I be in the design process?
“I think [clients] have become more and more involved in the process,” agrees Martin. “It’s a lot of money, so I understand why. I think whatever the couple decides is great, but I do think that if you’re spending thousands of dollars on something that she’s going to, hopefully, wear forever, it’s more commonplace for her to be involved from the get-go. I would say at the very least she’s provided some inspiration photos that are brought to the meeting.”
Should I bring references?
Something that holds more weight than celebrity trends? Family traditions, Martin says, explaining that people will bring in images of significant and poignant heirlooms they would like to honor.
“People mostly come in to the virtual appointments with many of their own ideas, whether that’s something off our website that they like, but they want to add a hidden halo or some additional diamond detail to it, or they will show us a blend of references from other brands and sources,” Martin adds.
The custom process can take as little as one month
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Friendly Diamonds
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Friendly Diamonds
How long will it take for my custom ring to be ready?
Once the order is placed, Friendly Diamonds prides themselves on having the ring ready within a three to four week timeframe.
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