Nail experts break down everything you need to know about these similar yet completely distinct in-salon options.
Acrylics, gels, dip powder, and extensions. There is such a variety of options for manicures, and each type has distinct advantages and disadvantages. In particular, gel nail polish and dip powder—two of the most popular manicure methods—belong in the acrylic-based family, but they differ in a few important ways.
Ahead, the key differences to know between gel and dip powder manicures.
In this story:
- Chelsea King is a nail artist based in Long Beach, California.
- Ashlie Johnson is a nail artist based in Manhattan Beach, California.
- Ron Robinson is a cosmetic chemist based in New York City.
- Deborah Lippmann is a manicurist and brand founder.
- Catherine Troisi is an infectious disease epidemiologist at the University of Texas Health Science Center in Houston.
Application process
“The easiest way to tell the difference between gel and dip powder [manicures] is how they are applied,” says manicurist Chelsea King. “With gel, it applies like regular nail polish, and you cure it in a UV or LED lamp after each coat.”
Gel manicure polishes contain photo-initiated polymers, which are activated when exposed to light, says manicurist Ashlie Johnson. Essentially, “these polymers absorb [light] rays,” says cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson, which causes them to “harden, or cure, so that the polish adheres to nails.”
This is most often done with a UV light because it works a bit quicker (usually in under 45 seconds) than LED. Simply put, gel polish is cured onto the nail using light; without UV or LED light, the polish will remain wet.
Dip manicures, on the other hand, “use colored powder acrylic mixed with a glue-type resin that cures in the air,” Johnson explains. The application process is exactly what it sounds like: First, a base or primer coat is painted on, then each nail—while still wet—is dipped into a small pot of colored acrylic powder. Your manicurist (or you, at home) will work in layers. Once the desired level of coverage is reached (usually two or three rounds of dipping is required), an activator polish is brushed on as a topcoat to cure the formula—no UV light required.
Gel polishes are painted on, similar to regular nail polish, and require UV or LED light to harden. Dip powder involves dipping each finger into an acrylic colored powder, then applying an activator polish as a topcoat that cures in the air.
Lasting power
A good gel manicure, when applied correctly, can last for two to three weeks. But for those who have oilier nail beds or are prone to chipping, gel polish may not last for even two weeks.
Dip powder manicures generally last longer than their gel counterparts. Deborah Lippmann, manicurist and founder of the namesake nail-care and color line, says that “dip powders are bonded using a glue called ‘cyanoacrylate,’ which is also the main ingredient in Krazy Glue”—that gives you a sense of just how strong the hardened dip powder formula is.
To get more specific, cyanoacrylates are “a family of strong-acting adhesives,” explains Robinson. Dip powder can be thought of as a glue-based resin that hardens when exposed to air, just like (you guessed it!) actual glue.
In brief, dip powder polymers are stronger than those found in gel polish, so dip manicures typically last longer—up to five weeks, if properly cared for.
Gel manicures usually last between two to three weeks, while dip powder manicures can last up to five, with proper prep, application, and maintenance.
Removal process
The acrylic-like, multilayered (read: thick) nature of dip powder manicures can ensure that they last longer than gel, but this also means they are more difficult to remove.
