Huishan Zhang has been pondering the “luxury of time.” The fittings, hair and make-up tests and model castings that would typically take place ahead of London Fashion Week were replaced by intimate client appointments and events. Zhang, a permanent fixture on the schedule, decided to show via look book for spring––because this made sense for his business model. The collection was immediately available to shop the moment it went live, to avoid the usual waiting period from runway to release date, and to enable his customers to engage with his newness as soon as possible. This was especially important since he’s had more time on his hands to interact with them.
A calendar reshuffle orchestrated over several seasons allowed for this shift––plus, he knew what his clientele wanted, so designing was merely a case of meeting demand and expanding their wardrobes. No last-minute tweaks or curveballs for Zhang: the clear divide between what he described as “daywear” and “evening wear”––the latter more embellished than the former––was decided months ago. Poplin dresses with visible, inside-out seam construction, lightweight denim, and crepe twin-sets for day; hand-beaded tulle and jacquard dresses for evening. A ballooning gown or cream longline coat for brides-to-be. (Truman Capote’s “swans” inspired the “elegance” and the name of the collection: The Standing Swans.)
While the split was clear at a preview––the rail on the right had a more muted palette and less physical presence, the rail on the left was shimmering and expanding outwards––Zhang categorized his offering further, with certain styles designed for specific markets. “This is very Upper East Side,” he said at a preview, pulling out a textile with subtle metal accents inspired by wallpaper. He can’t wait until his clients can see it up close to “appreciate the detail” bestowed on the custom fabrics, which have formed the backbone of his collections. The finishes differed between sections, but a cocoon silhouette, informed by Constantin Brâncuși’s sculptures, unified both; explored across skirts, dresses and jackets, achieved with boning, draping, and plenty of fittings. Now is the time for Zhang’s clients to admire––and invest in––his new work.
