There’s never been a better time to prioritize sunless tanning. We know the dangers of sun exposure—especially from UV tanning beds—but many of us still want that post-vacation glow. Enter: a promising array of self-tan options.
Thanks to elegant formulations and expert guidance, sunless tanning is more popular than ever. And I mean seriously popular. Market projections expect the self-tanning category to reach $315 million by 2030. Despite this, many people are still hesitant to add tinted mousses, moisturizers, and mists to their regular beauty routine. Friends regularly compliment my faux glow, but before I can share my hot tips, they hedge, telling me they’re worried about “going streaky” or “looking bad.” There are even Allure editors who remain apprehensive.
I’ve been self-tanning weekly for more than 15 years, a practice I started in my teens when I was Irish dancing, where self-tan was (almost) as important as the footwork. Through this experience, paired with 10 years working in the beauty industry, I’ve learned from every single mistake I’ve made, including bright orange soles, terribly blended wrists, and completely tan-free pits. Now I have it down to a fine art, not only after troubleshooting, but thanks to tips and tricks from the pros.
Self-tanning does require effort and the right products, but once perfected, it gives you a foolproof glow that can last a week. To get the full lowdown on all things tanning, I spoke with four celebrity tanners to learn their ultimate hacks and favorite products. One of them tanned Ryan Gosling for his role in Barbie—suffice to say, they know their stuff when it comes to a sunless golden glow.
First, we’ll cover why prep is key, then explain why application doesn’t have to be intimidating, before moving on to smart post-tan maintenance and easy removal. I promise you, once you’ve got your tanning routine down, you won’t look back.
How do self-tanners work?
There are five main self-tanner formulas: Mousses and foams are most popular for full-body tanning; moisturizers are used for gradual or top-up tanning; mists are used for the face (you can get full-body mists but they’re less common); tan drops are mixed with moisturizer for the face; and sprays are usually instant tans.
The primary active ingredient in most self-tanners is dihydroxyacetone (DHA). It’s a sugar that reacts with the amino acids in the top layer of our skin to cause a browning effect (called melanoidins) that mimics the effect of a natural tan. That classic “musty” tan scent (we Brits say it smells like biscuits) is due to this, known as the Maillard reaction, which also causes crisping and colorization when you cook food. Tanning shades come in light, medium, dark, and ultra dark. The higher the concentration of DHA in the formula, the darker the result is.
Some modern formulas are split by undertones. This clever concept was created by Jules Von Hep, one of the cofounders of Isle of Paradise, and his approach has since been adopted by other brands, including Bondi Sands and St. Moriz. These color-correcting formulas are designed to work with your skin tone to create the most natural-looking results. Common undertones in tan include: peach (to brighten), green (to neutralize redness), and violet or blue (to cancel orange and yellow tones in the skin).
Unlike those with lighter skin who focus on depth, people with darker skin tones should focus on “enhancement,” says Kimberley Nkosi, the celebrity tanner responsible for Ryan Gosling’s impeccable tan in Barbie. “The goal is to add richness and dimension,” she says, “not mask your natural tone.”
