Frequently Asked Questions
What is azelaic acid?
When most people hear the word “acid,” they usually think of a harsh chemical, but actually, azelaic acid is a sensitive, skin-friendly molecule (well, depending on its concentration, which we’ll dive into) derived from barley, rye, and wheat. It’s part of the dicarboxylic acid family and has antibacterial, keratolytic, comedolytic, and antioxidant properties. Azadeh Shirazi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in La Jolla, California, tells Allure that azelaic acid works by inhibiting tyrosinase (a.k.a. the enzyme involved in pigment production) and, thereby, “reduces hyperpigmentation” and describes this buzzy acid as a “dermatologist favorite, jack-of-all-trades, and one of the most underrated skin-care ingredients.” Okay, we’re officially sold.
Dr. Green echoes Dr. Shirazi’s sentiments. Both professionals also note that the benefits of azelaic acid include antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, excellent for treating skin conditions like acne and rosacea, as it kills breakout-causing bacteria and reduces inflammation. This versatile acid, also considered a gentle exfoliant, stimulates cell turnover as well. As such, Dr. Green says that azelaic acid “can help reduce the appearance of acne scars.”
Who can use azelaic acid?
The good news is that azelaic acid is safe for all skin types, but Dr. Green advises those with sensitive skin to start using it “once a day, increasing the frequency to twice a day after several weeks.” And, if you experience any irritation, it’s best to consult your doctor before continuing.
You also need not worry too much about adjusting your entire skin-care routine to incorporate azelaic acid. Fortunately, Dr. Green and Dr. Shirazi agree that azelaic acid is generally gentle enough and safe to use with other ingredients like vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs, and retinoids. However, says Dr. Green, “If you have prescription-strength azelaic acid, Retin-A, or other topical creams, you should consult a dermatologist.”
Depending on your skin type and concerns, azelaic acid can be found in over-the-counter products in all sorts of strengths, from as low as 1% to as high as 15%, with the highest prescription-strength concentration coming in at 20%, per Dr. Shirazi. However, lower concentrations can be just as effective and “may help prevent skin irritation” for those with reactive, sensitive skin, says Dr. Green. “Skin-care products with a low concentration of azelaic acid can be beneficial when it comes to unclogging pores, preventing acne breakouts, and soothing skin inflammation,” he adds. For those with acne-prone skin, lower concentrations of azelaic acid are often combined with other actives, such as AHAs and BHAs, for a multi-pronged approach.
Can azelaic acid be used with tretinoin?
Yes, azelaic acid can be used alongside retinoids like retinol and tretinoin, and it’s a combination dermatologists frequently recommend because the two ingredients “complement each other very well,” says Dr. Queller. While tretinoin increases skin cell turnover, stimulates collagen production, and improves acne and signs of photoaging, azelaic acid has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and pigment-reducing properties. Together, “they’re especially beneficial for addressing multiple skin-care concerns at once,” such as acne, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and early signs of aging, says Dr. Queller.
Rather than simply increasing the strength of tretinoin—which can also increase the likelihood of redness, peeling, dryness, and irritation—Dr. Queller often prefers adding azelaic acid because it “enhances results for acne and discoloration while helping reduce inflammation and the appearance of persistent pigmentation.” If you have sensitive skin, eczema, or a compromised skin barrier, she recommends introducing the ingredients gradually under a dermatologist’s guidance. Many patients can eventually use both in the same evening routine by applying azelaic acid first, followed by tretinoin and then moisturizer, though those with sensitive skin may find it more comfortable to use azelaic acid in the morning and tretinoin at night.
Meet the experts
- Jocelyn Gandelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatologist based in New York City
- Marisa Garshick, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City
- Michele Green, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City
- Corey L. Hartman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology based in Birmingham, Alabama
- Debra Jaliman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City
- Aderonke Obayomi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant professor at Mount Sinai, based in New York City
- Sandra Oska, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Dermatology Institute & Skin Care Center based in Los Angeles and Santa Monica, California
- Jenna Queller, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of DermWorks based in Boca Raton, Florida
- Ava Shamban, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Beverly Hills
- Azadeh Shirazi, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in La Jolla, California
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When Allure tests a product, our editors look at it from every angle in an effort to best serve you. We review ingredients, scrutinize brand claims, and, when necessary, examine peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing each and every product that’s included in each and every review, we rely on experts who shape their fields, including dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine, to help us vet the ingredients and formulas.
For our list of the best azelaic acid products, we considered each product’s performance across five primary categories: product ingredients and efficacy, packaging, fragrance, texture, and product wear. Every product was determined to have excelled in each category by our editorial team, which is composed of in-house writers and editors as well as contributors—along with special consideration from board-certified dermatologists. To learn more information on our reporting and testing processes, read our complete reviews process and methodology page.
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