With Ernesto Naranjo, references are often subtle rather than literal. Ondine, the title of his latest collection, may suggest water and the mythological figure behind the name. But that was not quite the point. Instead, the designer built an abstract marine world through color gradients, netting and silver mesh, with influences from artists such as Rachel Whiteread and Franz Erhard Walther.
The collection arrives at a turning point. Naranjo is coming off the high of dressing Zendaya, but he has no interest in being defined by that moment. “It was incredible that she chose me, but the sales impact was very short-lived. Clients came in asking for Zendaya’s exact red dress, then never came back,” he said. “That design is very me, but I don’t want to repeat it forever. It has been done enough.”
That feeling extends to the whole company. Since last season, the label has simply been called Naranjo, part of a broader push to build a stronger brand. “The name change is about creating something that can grow into different categories: accessories, shoes, eyewear,” he explained. “I want people to picture the brand without me and still recognize its codes. Naranjo is much bigger than one person.”
Consistency is key to that identity. He keeps returning to core pieces, including the Liza top, inspired by Liza Minnelli. This season, it came in a glossy finish with an anemone-shaped brooch that will also be sold separately. “At first, I loved designing something completely different every season. But if you want to grow, you need strong classics you can build on,” he said. This time, he also focused more on separates, including skirts, pants, and tops designed to work with the rest of a wardrobe.
His goal of taking the brand further internationally has also led him toward more elevated fabrics. This season included plenty of satin and silk taffeta, mixed with stretch tulle, technical cotton, and multicolored silk fringe sourced in Seville and made in his Madrid studio. “I don’t want to sell everywhere. I want to make fewer pieces and keep tight control, while still adapting to the market,” he said. Color remains another Naranjo signature. His unexpected combinations reflected his time working for John Galliano: familiar shades like red, pink, and purple were shifted slightly off course. Black also played a bigger role this season, largely because clients keep asking for it. His approach is practical. “Of course I have references, but this is still a business. I look at the previous season, see what sold, and figure out how to revisit it with a different neckline, color, or texture.” Accessories brought in the playful side, from animal-print shoes and anklets made from children’s necklaces to bags handwoven by his mother-in-law, Angelita.
