Of 9,283 looks presented across 219 shows and presentations, 97.5% were straight-size (US 0-4), 2% were mid-size (US 6-12), and 0.5% were plus-size (US 14+). The results mark a negligible improvement on FW26, when straight-size looks represented 97.6% of the total, mid-size looks made up 2.1% — this figure has remained roughly flat for the past four seasons — and plus-size looks made up 0.3%. In two years, total curve representation (2.5% for SS27) has almost halved, down from 5.1% for FW25.
As in previous seasons, Vogue Business analyzed each runway show and presentation that featured on both Vogue Runway and the official New York, London, Milan, and Paris schedules, calculating the proportion of total looks that are straight, mid, and plus-size. All brands included in our reporting were contacted to verify the data and informed that if they did not respond, our initial findings would be used. Vogue Business determined sizing ranges based on typical sample sizes for straight sizing and established definitions of mid and plus-size.
In New York, just 0.9% of the total looks were plus-size (up from 0.4% last season), 2.6% were mid-size (up from 1.9% last season), and 96.5% were straight-size (down from 97.7%). Of the top 10 most size-inclusive shows in New York, seven featured plus-size representation, up from two last season.
Bloomingdale’s fashion director David Thielebeule was encouraged by greater age diversity on the runway this season, but dismayed by the narrow range of body shapes. “In a season when designers across all four fashion capitals made such a convincing case for real clothes over pure fantasy, it seems rather extraordinary that we’re still presenting such a limited idea of the women who might wear them,” he says. “After all, what’s the point of making clothes women want to buy if so many women can’t see themselves in them?”
