Since taking over as creative director last year, Demna has revealed his vision for the new era of Gucci in increments. A year ago, for his debut Spring/Summer 2026 collection titled La Famiglia, the designer tapped into the label’s signature flamboyance, while Pre-Fall 2026 read more archival, nodding to defining eras in the brand’s history. Fall/Winter 2026 was a lesson in sexuality, showcasing sultry, revealing designs that celebrated the body, and the most recent Cruise 2027 presentation (set in NYC’s Times Square) helped solidify the brand’s foundational wardrobe icons. A culmination of all of the above, Demna’s “research” is fully materialized for Spring/Summer 2027 as the The Store Show in Milan on Sept. 25.
“The conclusion of my research is that Gucci stands for being rooted in the desire to belong to a more glamorous world and in the audacity to remake that world in your own image,” says Demna in the official show notes. “Gucci is about luxury that wants to be seen. It is about the tension between propriety and sensuality.”
Set in a custom-built replica of a flagship Gucci store, the collection kicked off with an homage to the “polished bourgeois respectability” the brand was originally built on a century prior. The sleek riding ensembles topped off with iconic pieces like the logoed Boston and Lady Lunetta chain bags, as well as the millennial-loved GG monogram belt, nodded to the equestrian aesthetic that became a signature for the Italian label in the 1950s.
The procession evolves to Gucci’s most memorable periods, in which “eccentricity, danger, sex appeal” are at the center, presented in thigh-grazing mini skirt suits paired with opaque black tights and pointed stiletto pumps — a take on the ‘80s power suit. Tom Ford-era Gucci seemingly inspired the fitted, low-waisted pencil skirts worn with bralettes and statement-shouldered blazers as well as the slinky floor-sweeping jersey gowns with generous cut-outs and up-to-there slits.
Jet-set glamour and the label’s deep Hollywood ties were reflected in the extravagant and copious outerwear, clearly meant more as statement pieces. A rounded leather bomber jacket worn by Elsa Hosk was paired with shiny gray cargo trousers, a striped polo, and heels. A cheetah-print full-length teddy coat served as a focal point, tied over black leggings and, that’s right, stiletto heels. Demna is making it clear that the Gucci girl may be varied and complex, but she is always owning the room.
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“I want Gucci to embody that same spirit today: a place where seemingly dissimilar people can meet, connect, and inspire one another,” read the show notes. “Because Gucci is a space of possibility where anyone can become whomever they choose.”
Ahead, see highlights from Demna’s fully formed vision.
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